Both Batteries Dead 2020 Gladiator $898 to replace!?!???

[BajaTJ]

Has to be a tolerance spread between the two measuring devices and/or time sampling difference.

Also, it seems you enter the battery data for each battery/device combo, so the app would probably have different considerations and algorithms to generate the reports.

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[Hootbro]

Also, it seems you enter the battery data for each battery/device combo, so the app would probably have different considerations and algorithms to generate the reports.

Quite possible also. I guarantee if the same multimeter used was checked on each battery +/- terminals they would be almost identical within millivolts standard deviation accounting for operator differences in pressure and surface terminal resistance if any.

 

[Lunentucker]

Speaking of multimeters, after reading something about being sure to connect a tender to the larger bolt on the ground post and not the smaller one, I tested continuity between both of them and there's no difference. I can't figure out how the battery monitoring system would know which lug is connected to the tender if the lugs are connected to each other anyway. ?

 

[Hootbro]

I can't figure out how the battery monitoring system would know which lug is connected to the tender if the lugs are connected to each other anyway.

It would not know. I have read nothing that would indicate the BMS on these vehicles could differentiate between the two batteries and treats both as one battery and charges as such.

If you hooked a battery tender lead to either battery directly, it would charge both batteries regardless. In theory, you could connect one battery tender lead to lets say the negative on one battery and the other lead on the positive of the second battery and it would still charge and maintain both.

 

[BajaTJ]

Speaking of multimeters, after reading something about being sure to connect a tender to the larger bolt on the ground post and not the smaller one, I tested continuity between both of them and there's no difference. I can't figure out how the battery monitoring system would know which lug is connected to the tender if the lugs are connected to each other anyway. ?

I wonder if they are referring to a higher amp jump charge? Can’t see how a trickle charger could possibly have/cause trouble on any of the lugs.

 

[Lunentucker]

It would not know. I have read nothing that would indicate the BMS on these vehicles could differentiate between the two batteries and treats both as one battery and charges as such.

If you hooked a battery tender lead to either battery directly, it would charge both batteries regardless. In theory, you could connect one battery tender lead to lets say the negative on one battery and the other lead on the positive of the second battery and it would still charge and maintain both.

That is what I was thinking as well. Can't figure out what that other person was trying to say, but it made no sense to me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You cannot measure individual battery voltages when wired in parallel. Any measurement will be the levelized of the two.

And your measurement will be while there's a draw on the batteries - the normal electronics.
Mine read 12.19 when connected together. When I separated them, the AUX read 12.29 while the crank battery measured 12.26.
That's because all draw was removed and neither battery was any load on the other.

In theory, you could connect one battery tender lead to lets say the negative on one battery and the other lead on the positive of the second battery and it would still charge and maintain both.

Actually, that's the ideal way to charge batteries in parallel - negative on one, positive on the other.
Doesn't take much to find the charts and diagrams outlining the how and why, so I won't put in another paragraph here LOL

after reading something about being sure to connect a tender to the larger bolt on the ground post and not the smaller one,

There's so much BS and guessing out there, someone did something once and it's a huge new discovery and they make YT videos and become the how-to king, etc.
You connect to the post on top of the IBS. Not directly to the crank battery negative. That's the one and only rule.
The only time it can possibly matter between ground points otherwise is if you have a voltage drop, a bad connection, a small wire, whatever.

The only way I can figure that their statement makes sense is if it's one of the other versions of the IBS Jeep has used - and there's been at least 4 different ones with different studs and posts, so maybe they were trying to say charge through the IBS and not around or under it.

Always connect a battery charger or tender in such a way that it goes through the IBS to get to the negative battery post, don't connect directly to the negative post.

 

[Gossamer]

Can someone enlighten me on this? Not very mechanically inclined, but man, do I feel like I’m getting shafted by the dealership.
Jeep won’t start, 2020 Glad, no mods, and it has 38k miles on it. (2kMike out of warranty?)
Attempt to jump start but the dash reads that the car is in 2H so it won’t start. But in fact it is not in gear, it’s been parked. I can’t get it “out of gear” so I can’t jump it. Have to get towed to the dealership. Whil waiting for the tow, I hear a very faint high pitched noise from under the hood? Very faint. It won’t quit when I disconnect the mail battery. It does quit when I pull a “larger” rectangular fuse. Put the fuse back and it continues to sound. Get towed and the dealer says they have to start with both batteries because they both aren’t passing the test and they are both failing. Both at the same time??? Then he tells me it $898 to replace both!?!!! On a two yr old vehicle!?!? $900 on batteries. And they won’t work with me on the 2k over the warranty. I have no choice. They put the batteries in and says the car tests fine. No issues??? I don’t believe it? Two batteries dead at once? In my mind there’s something else wrong with this car.
And, who makes those batteries? Is it Jeep? What’s the warranty on a battery? Even the cheapest batteries from Walmart have a warranty better than that. Can I go to Jeep customer service? Corporate? The battery manufacturer? I feel likeI got taken big time!
Any advice out there?? $900 is a tough pill to swallow. Thank you!

Quick comment to the OP here: I don't pretend to know how you use your vehicle or how often you've pulled the doors, top, etc. But on mine, I was having a very strange issue with my batteries going down (though never to the extent you describe), but I'd get a warning light. I'd take it to the dealer, and they'd tell me it was fine because the light had gone out. I was just outside my warranty, but finally I was on my way to the dealer for something unrelated, and lucky me, the light came on a block from the dealership. So, when I got there, they added that to my list of things to check. They found that there was a short in the door harness where you unplug to remove the driver's door. It was draining my batteries. Who knows yours is the same, but I figured I'd throw that out there in case it helps in some way. I was lucky enough to get coverage for the harness because the light had been reported to them previously. I'm sorry you're not experiencing the same. Good luck

 

[JimRoy1]

Can someone enlighten me on this? Not very mechanically inclined, but man, do I feel like I’m getting shafted by the dealership.
Jeep won’t start, 2020 Glad, no mods, and it has 38k miles on it. (2kMike out of warranty?)
Attempt to jump start but the dash reads that the car is in 2H so it won’t start. But in fact it is not in gear, it’s been parked. I can’t get it “out of gear” so I can’t jump it. Have to get towed to the dealership. Whil waiting for the tow, I hear a very faint high pitched noise from under the hood? Very faint. It won’t quit when I disconnect the mail battery. It does quit when I pull a “larger” rectangular fuse. Put the fuse back and it continues to sound. Get towed and the dealer says they have to start with both batteries because they both aren’t passing the test and they are both failing. Both at the same time??? Then he tells me it $898 to replace both!?!!! On a two yr old vehicle!?!? $900 on batteries. And they won’t work with me on the 2k over the warranty. I have no choice. They put the batteries in and says the car tests fine. No issues??? I don’t believe it? Two batteries dead at once? In my mind there’s something else wrong with this car.
And, who makes those batteries? Is it Jeep? What’s the warranty on a battery? Even the cheapest batteries from Walmart have a warranty better than that. Can I go to Jeep customer service? Corporate? The battery manufacturer? I feel likeI got taken big time!
Any advice out there?? $900 is a tough pill to swallow. Thank you!

 

[JimRoy1]

I have a 2020 Glad and so far I have had both batteries replaced twice and the ess battery replaced (3) time and I only have 8000 miles on the truck, they tell me that the batteries go bad because I don't drive the truck often enough. all batteries were replaced under warranty so no cost to me yet.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a 2020 Glad and so far I have had both batteries replaced twice and the ess battery replaced (3) time and I only have 8000 miles on the truck, they tell me that the batteries go bad because I don't drive the truck often enough. all batteries were replaced under warranty so no cost to me yet.

??
You only drive it once a month -and then for 10 minutes?

You need a battery tender. I've been using those on my cars for years and they don't even have parasitic draw of electronics.

 

[Gordo]

Can someone enlighten me on this? Not very mechanically inclined, but man, do I feel like I’m getting shafted by the dealership.
Jeep won’t start, 2020 Glad, no mods, and it has 38k miles on it. (2kMike out of warranty?)
Attempt to jump start but the dash reads that the car is in 2H so it won’t start. But in fact it is not in gear, it’s been parked. I can’t get it “out of gear” so I can’t jump it. Have to get towed to the dealership. Whil waiting for the tow, I hear a very faint high pitched noise from under the hood? Very faint. It won’t quit when I disconnect the mail battery. It does quit when I pull a “larger” rectangular fuse. Put the fuse back and it continues to sound. Get towed and the dealer says they have to start with both batteries because they both aren’t passing the test and they are both failing. Both at the same time??? Then he tells me it $898 to replace both!?!!! On a two yr old vehicle!?!? $900 on batteries. And they won’t work with me on the 2k over the warranty. I have no choice. They put the batteries in and says the car tests fine. No issues??? I don’t believe it? Two batteries dead at once? In my mind there’s something else wrong with this car.
And, who makes those batteries? Is it Jeep? What’s the warranty on a battery? Even the cheapest batteries from Walmart have a warranty better than that. Can I go to Jeep customer service? Corporate? The battery manufacturer? I feel likeI got taken big time!
Any advice out there?? $900 is a tough pill to swallow. Thank you!

This happened to my daughters 2020 wrangler sport. Tow company had no idea how to get it out my garage. Luckily she was covered under warranty. I was sceptical about having the auto start feature and twin batteries. I agree obviously there is an issue.

 

[hjdca]

??
You only drive it once a month -and then for 10 minutes?

You need a battery tender. I've been using those on my cars for years and they don't even have parasitic draw of electronics.

yes, what he said... I have many cars for a long long time and I was replacing batteries every year.... With the battery tender, a battery will last over 7 years - even if you drive it once a year. They are unbelievable in extending the lives of batteries.... I think I have one battery coming up on 9 years on a battery tender on my old landcruiser... Best money I ever spent.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

yes, what he said... I have many cars for a long long time and I was replacing batteries every year.... With the battery tender, a battery will last over 7 years - even if you drive it once a year. They are unbelievable in extending the lives of batteries.... I think I have one battery coming up on 9 years on a battery tender on my old landcruiser... Best money I ever spent.

When batteries aren't cycled excessively, meaning the vehicle is tuned and starts quickly, or, they don't sit and self-drain, or don't sit and drain due to a draw from the vehicle itself, as you have found, they'll last and last..........
As I've said - my Ford always started easily, quickly, original battery went 12 years. Original Chevy battery went 6 but it did honestly sit quite a bit and I didn't put a tender on it. My F20 battery was a cheap Walmart 4 year battery and went 6 years but I did put a charger on it now and then - the tractor was only started every few months
For a while I had 3 cars, the Chevy pickup, a 2004 and 2018 Grand Cherokee, and we were both retired. Vehicles sat. The cars all sat from about October into April after the spring rains purged the roads of salts and sand. Battery tenders have made those car batteries live longer than their 60 month ratings. I believe the one in my 73 is likely 7 years old by now.
With the cost of batteries today, any battery, even a basic wet lead acid battery, a .5 or 1 amp battery minder or battery tender is really cheap way to extend the life of a battery. They way more than pay for themselves.
And many have quick connects on the cable so you can hard wire a pigtail to the vehicle and disconnect or connect without ever opening the hood.
I believe there are even magnetic connectors so if you are absent-minded like me and would tend to drive off without thinking of the connection - no biggy, the magnets let loose before any damage is done. (and because the connection is away from the battery, no sparks to blow the hydrogen produced while charging a legacy wet battery.

 

[punk'n]

.........
I believe there are even magnetic connectors so if you are absent-minded like me and would tend to drive off without thinking of the connection - no biggy, the magnets let loose before any damage is done. (and because the connection is away from the battery, no sparks to blow the hydrogen produced while charging a legacy wet battery.

Yep. MagCode magnetic connectors. I added then to two vehicles already.

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