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Building a Mojavicon: Adding Lockers and Swaybar to a Mojave

RyderGear

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that button you had must be the old jl switch,
JT RUBICON has offroad button
i wonder what the part number is for it though
here is the pic

41E9FDE5-69C7-4167-90C4-A0AD90CA783A.png
In my opinion this just complicates things.

Front Locker Solution
If you look at it from a capability perspective its way way way easier to simply get an ARB air locker for the front locker and then you have the added bonus of onboard air to refill your tires. Plus then you don't have to deal with any software issues.

Swaybar Solution
While the electronic sway bar is "convenient" i find its auto-engage feature to be quite annoying while wheeling. Especially in a Mojave which is designed for high speed off roading. Personally I got these. https://www.apexdesignsusa.com/products/autolynx-sway-bar-disconnect and never looked back. 1 mechanical flip of the wrist and my sway bar is disengaged for wheeling and another to re-engage when I'm done. Its painfully easy and simple and under $500 to do.

If you truley want the transfer case then indeed you must swap that out, but for the Front locker and Sway bar are very easy to add to a mojave.

I did these 3 years ago when I got my Mojave and its performed excellently on over 22 BOH trails including Rubicon and most in Moab.
 

Beungood

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The Rubicon also gets the rear locker in 4h I use it all the time off road. Put it in 4h, hit off-road+ hold esc until the dash says it's off (5-10 seconds) lock rear.

I'd argue it's much harder to install a front locker than the 8 bolts and 4 screws for fox remotes or 8 bolts for falcons. The shocks on the Mojave are great but it's not hard to add them on after and with extended travel and adjusters.
Mojave has a stronger bedded up frame , steering box and cast iron knuckles. Rubicon doesn’t.
 

ecidiego

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Sit in Rubicon seats and hold the wheel then do the same in Mojave and report back ;)
 

Beungood

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Everyone hold off on the front locker. My shop ran into numerous problems. First ARB never sent carrier bearings and no one has them local. Also the locker is a 1/4 inch smaller than the housing. They could put splines in to make up the difference, but we’re worried it would grenade if being pushed in deep snow. So maybe it still works, but I told them not to risk it.
I’d throw in a truetrac or Aussie torque master instead.
 

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Beungood

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Definitely interested in the Autolynx, that's what I've been looking at for my Mojave. Spendy, but seem to be worth it.

My Gen 2 Raptor had a Torsen in the front from stock and it felt way more confident in 4A and 4H than my Gen 1 Raptors did. Too bad the 4A use blew the hubs prematurely (part of the reason I didn't get the newer JT with the 4A option).



I'm kind of surprised the housing is smaller, doesn't make a whole lot of sense for them to be different.
How did the 4a ruin your hubs ?
 

Willpower1

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Does the diesel Rubicon have the reinforced frame? I thought the Mojave trim is the only one that did
 

antwon412

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I made my own version. Added a front locker when I had the gears redone. Apex AutoLynx disconnects. Sometimes I think it might be nice to have the extra low transfer case but realistically I’ve never needed it.
 

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bleda2002

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Mojave has a stronger bedded up frame , steering box and cast iron knuckles. Rubicon doesn’t.
It's a few extra frame welds and the gladiator already has a strong frame with no frame bending issues so meh. Iron knuckles I'll give you, but I bought reid for 700 bucks, and they both have the same steering box.

As mentioned, if you get the diesel Rubicon you also get all this already as well.
 

Len

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All true, I more meant how would you integrate the E-sway bar into the OS, and the answer is the same as my Front Air locker... you don't/can't... It makes sense that a constant 12v signal from any switch would work, same as after market lights etc... You just have to be mindful of when you are engaged and when you are not. Personally I like the manual control that I have. My friends with Rubi's tell me they find it annoying that while wheeling the sway bar re-engages at 25 mph (or 35 i forget) and they are constantly unlocking it when we slow for obstacles. Then again I will say I once forgot to lock my manual disconnects and while taking a highway turn at 85 mph, definately noticed the lack of sway bar counterforce. So there are pros and cons. But overall I absolutely LOVE my MOJAVICON. Putting it to the full test this week. Running the RUBICON Trail starting Friday :)
Tazer mini takes care of the sway bar reconnect issue. On gravel roads is disconnect mine in 2wheel drive and fly down washboard roads.😉
 
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bleda2002

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errrr

search the forum !
I've been here for years and there have maybe been a handful reported. They have been on massively overloaded (8500+ lbs) gladiators, and people jumping or smashing whoops at much too high of a speed where they bottom out the shocks and bump stops typically after going airborne. The frame is just not an issue, and a few extra welds(not extra gussets) are unlikely to make a difference in those frame bending scenarios.
 

Hootbro

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I've been here for years and there have maybe been a handful reported. They have been on massively overloaded (8500+ lbs) gladiators, and people jumping or smashing whoops at much too high of a speed where they bottom out the shocks and bump stops typically after going airborne. The frame is just not an issue, and a few extra welds(not extra gussets) are unlikely to make a difference in those frame bending scenarios.
I have not seen a new bent frame thread in awhile.
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