Diesel cooling options and ideas

[am1978]

Because the vents are factory cosmetic add ons with little to do with air flow unless you mod them, just like the side vents.

Are there aftermarket side vents that enable more airflow?

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[Chance575]

The thermostat also controls the amount of time the coolant is in the radiator to cool off

 

[dcmdon]

What do you guys think about adding a 2-3 inch lip on the top of the grill going forward to trap pressure? Almost a hood extension ish. I know a few post mentioned the idea but I may add that to the test list because the fabrication would be simple.

I think you are going in the wrong direction. Rather than extend a lip in front of the grill so it scoops more air, it would be more effective extend something BEHIND the grill to seal the pressure between the grill and the radiator.

This would ensure that the minimum amount of air went through the radiator rather than around it.

Like I said, on our road race bikes, the gaps between the inlet and the radiator were always sealed for just this purpose. The gaps are also sealed on (air cooled) aircraft engines. The air comes in through relatively small intakes and into a rather large plenum that then forces air down through the fins.

 

[redrider]

I have the OEM steel winch bumper and skidplate installed still.

What do you guys think about adding a 2-3 inch lip on the top of the grill going forward to trap pressure? Almost a hood extension ish. I know a few post mentioned the idea but I may add that to the test list because the fabrication would be simple.

I am also curious if anyone with confirmed heat issues has their lower dam below the bumper on of removed? Mine was on and was heating up. Removing and adding a scoop might also add significant pressure to the front of the radiator if deflected up.

Just adding to a few touches to your good ideas.

The problem is extracting the heat trapped in the engine bay. The Rubi louvers are directional-if they were functional the low pressure above the hood would naturally pull the air out. just like sucking on a straw but with air, not liquid. You already have more than adequate pressure on the radiator face.

I do not care what the parts manual nomenclature is for the front bash plate-that is what it is. It protects the steering components and is plastic so as to absorb the hit, deform and return to fight another day. A dam stops the flow of air and diverts it to the side with a flat face very close to the road/track surface.

At rest over sun baked asphalt only adds to the heat. Chimneys point up for a reason.

 

[jeepin48]

I think you are going in the wrong direction. Rather than extend a lip in front of the grill so it scoops more air, it would be more effective extend something BEHIND the grill to seal the pressure between the grill and the radiator.

This would ensure that the minimum amount of air went through the radiator rather than around it.

Like I said, on our road race bikes, the gaps between the inlet and the radiator were always sealed for just this purpose. The gaps are also sealed on (air cooled) aircraft engines. The air comes in through relatively small intakes and into a rather large plenum that then forces air down through the fins.

It is already sealed well between the grill and the radiator. Many cars they are not but Gladiators are.

Bottom line is pressure differential creates flow so it should help with either increasing pressure in
front of the radiator or better venting in the hood, fenders, or down.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you open the 'stat earlier, you are adding a large volume of cool/cold liquid to the volume of the engine coolant which takes longer to heat. Pretty simple. Does it take longer to boil a cup of water or 5 gallons?

Uh, not a comparison because in the latter you totally changed VOLUME, in the former you aren't changing volume. You have a set amount of coolant.
If the engine at 65 mph on a level is producing just for a number for comparison, say grabbing out of the air, 1,000 BTU and the cooling system can remove 1400 BTU, life is great. But if you hit a grade with the drag of a trailer and are producing 1500 BTU and the cooling system can only remove 1400 then you have a deficit and will eventually overheat.
The cooler stat lowers the starting point and buys time, but for a sustained pull on a grade it will indeed fall behind and it will overheat again given time. All you've done is shift the starting point down, you have not increased what it can remove.

I have to agree that for hills like around here, our grades, it's a way to cheat time. IT's a good point, almost like you are going to the bottom of the grade and shutting down and letting the engine cool - you'll be fine by the time you get to the top if it's not TOO long a grade. You are giving it a handicap, a head start.
But the fact the engine is putting out more than the cooling system can remove is not changed at all.
For long grades it's still going to overheat because of the amount over time. It'll catch up to you.
That's the issue here - the engine is putting out MORE BTUs than the cooling system can remove. So over time it's going to overheat no matter what.
For shorter grades, it's a way around the issue of not enough cooling for the pressure the engine is under.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The thermostat also controls the amount of time the coolant is in the radiator to cool off

YES. There are multiple places where that is addressed. IF it flows too fast, not as much heat is extracted, too slow and the coolant is lingering longer than needed and also slowing down heat transfer causing the coolant in the block to get hotter. That's why my car with NO stat actually had worse heating issues than after I put a stat in it. The prior owner didn't understand that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The problem is extracting the heat trapped in the engine bay. The Rubi louvers are directional-if they were functional the low pressure above the hood would naturally pull the air out. just like sucking on a straw but with air, not liquid. You already have more than adequate pressure on the radiator face.

I do not care what the parts manual nomenclature is for the front bash plate-that is what it is. It protects the steering components and is plastic so as to absorb the hit, deform and return to fight another day. A dam stops the flow of air and diverts it to the side with a flat face very close to the road/track surface.

At rest over sun baked asphalt only adds to the heat. Chimneys point up for a reason.

Might want to look at a few wind tunnel examples. That air dam creates a low pressure area behind it and smoke directed into a grill actually goes down and out behind the air dam. It's like a wing in a way, air is forced to go around it meaning it has to speed up and this creates a low pressure area like blowing across the end of a straw, but better, because the dam is semi-wing shaped. To curve around any curved object the air has to pick up speed and that lowers pressure.

I've seen examples by Ford, etc.
That dam also presents a smoother face for the air instead of the blunt suspension and steering. It lowers drag. Again, Ford for examples.

 

[Sazabi19]

If you're worried about the horns why not move the light bar you have above your bumper too? Also, I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm not sure why Jeep doesn't make a mesh version of our grill for better airflow. All the solid parts should be a mesh with larger vents/gaps. They could still make it visible so everyone can see the iconic 7-slot design.

Also, would a rad/fan from a Max Tow fit at all? I thought it was larger for some reason.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you're worried about the horns why not move the light bar you have above your bumper too? Also, I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm not sure why Jeep doesn't make a mesh version of our grill for better airflow. All the solid parts should be a mesh with larger vents/gaps. They could still make it visible so everyone can see the iconic 7-slot design.

Also, would a rad/fan from a Max Tow fit at all? I thought it was larger for some reason.

My understanding is the radiator is the same, the fans vary from base versions to those with tow options, but otherwise, anything with towing gets the larger fans/alternator.
Doesn't look like to many versions of the JT get the smaller stuff.
Could be wrong, just an OBSERVATION based on comments others have made.

 

[stickshifter]

With regard to cooling, is it fair to say that the lights on the AEV front bumper are a terrible idea for a diesel owner?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

With regard to cooling, is it fair to say that the lights on the AEV front bumper are a terrible idea for a diesel owner?

Gee, maybe, just maybe, you are onto something??
Bar, winch, lights, all seem to be in the grill
Naw, can't have any impact, naw.

 

[stickshifter]

Wow, hope it was good oil! Anything over 270 bothers me.

Yeah, sounds right Cold air - denser, more O in the chamber to combine with fuel and you start with a denser charge to compress resulting in more chamber pressure.

My Eagle's 4.0 LOVES 40 degrees and humid. So much I actually feel it, not kidding. It's just better in town. Above 50 isn't quite as good and too cold same thing. But that sweet spot on those humid cool fall and spring days, it's enough to notice.

On the tonneau cover, tailgate thing - every vehicle has an area of high pressure in front and low pressure behind. I watched a neat video a while back about thrust vs drag and lift vs. down-force.

And another that matches that - and if you had seen the first one you'd get the dynamics and how to literally measure the opposing forces.........
My trucks over the years I think back and remember seeing the fall leaves swirling back there, constantly swirling with tail gate up and with it down, all of the leaves and debris were "sucked" up against the front of the box, indicating a low pressure force.
I used to believe the opposite until I looked into wind tunnel displays and videos showing it scientifically.

Another short video (2 minutes) to support what ShadowsPapa posted about air flow and tailgates, with the addition of how a topper impacts air flow - and don't you worry about that giant whose hand is the size of a Power Wagon, the bigger they come the harder they fall

 

[Pike1892]

To the OP, I applaud you for starting this thread, I too am trying to figure out the same. I traded my 2017 Silverado in for the Diesel Gladiator. I was disappointed a few weeks ago when I go really hot here in Utah pulling a few grades pulling a car hauler with 16' rafts on it. I know I was under the tow capacity but almost overheated towards the top. My friend has the same truck I have and was large part of why I made the jump, now I am concerned I may not be able to tow what I once did and everything I towed should be in the tow limit of the Diesel Gladiator.

I have the same questions you do and hopefully don't regret my decision to get this truck. My background is air cooled VW's and we always add an external oil cooler with a fan to help remove heat. For VWs is all about air flow and getting heat out of the engine.

Were you able to get any data on the grille removed, sorry but this thread got off topic with a T stat fight.

I added Royal Purple Ice/ water wetter into the radiator and am seeing an average of about 7-10 degrees cooler.

Here are my next thought and plans probably in this order, hopefully something positive can come out of this and we can tow without turning the heat on going over passes in the middle of summer.

1. Cutting a few inches off the inner fender or add vents to help get the heat out of the engine bay. I plan this first then might buy inner fender liners that have mesh to move heat.

2. Looking at trying waterless coolant such as https://www.evanscoolant.com/vehicle-types/jeep-off-road/

3. Find a different grille such as https://airdesignusa.com/jeep-wrangler-jl-pro-performance-hexagon-front-grill.html

4. Figure out how to add an external oil cooler with fan to help dissipate heat in another location, maybe under the bed of the truck, etc.

5, find a bigger radiator or same as above but for the coolant in another location.

 

[Phil3333]

To the OP, I applaud you for starting this thread, I too am trying to figure out the same. I traded my 2017 Silverado in for the Diesel Gladiator. I was disappointed a few weeks ago when I go really hot here in Utah pulling a few grades pulling a car hauler with 16' rafts on it. I know I was under the tow capacity but almost overheated towards the top. My friend has the same truck I have and was large part of why I made the jump, now I am concerned I may not be able to tow what I once did and everything I towed should be in the tow limit of the Diesel Gladiator.

I have the same questions you do and hopefully don't regret my decision to get this truck. My background is air cooled VW's and we always add an external oil cooler with a fan to help remove heat. For VWs is all about air flow and getting heat out of the engine.

Were you able to get any data on the grille removed, sorry but this thread got off topic with a T stat fight.

I added Royal Purple Ice/ water wetter into the radiator and am seeing an average of about 7-10 degrees cooler.

Here are my next thought and plans probably in this order, hopefully something positive can come out of this and we can tow without turning the heat on going over passes in the middle of summer.

1. Cutting a few inches off the inner fender or add vents to help get the heat out of the engine bay. I plan this first then might buy inner fender liners that have mesh to move heat.

2. Looking at trying waterless coolant such as https://www.evanscoolant.com/vehicle-types/jeep-off-road/

3. Find a different grille such as https://airdesignusa.com/jeep-wrangler-jl-pro-performance-hexagon-front-grill.html

4. Figure out how to add an external oil cooler with fan to help dissipate heat in another location, maybe under the bed of the truck, etc.

5, find a bigger radiator or same as above but for the coolant in another location.

That grill looks ok I wonder how better air flow it has

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