Major Failure at 30k

[Mike-len]

On a recent trip, my Gladiator went into limp mode and left me stranded 1000 miles from home. I limped it to the new dealership and rented a vehicle and drove home. It took them a month to do all of the repairs.
I bought the Gladiator new in 2022. It is not a daily driver. All of the miles have been extended road trips mostly camping and towing my 2000lb boat. I have a Go Fast Camper installed which weighs approximately 350lbs.
the oil has been changed every 5k miles religiously at the the dealer and all recommend maintenance has been performed. I use EDT every time I fill up and only BlueDef exhaust fluid is used.
Here are details of what failed:
Fuel pump recall was done in February 2024. In June 2024 when this incident occurred the dealership replaced the turbo, low pressure EGR cooler, intake manifold, catalytic converter and fuel pump. They found the DPF to be 115% full and replaced that as well.
they couldn’t give me a clear explanation of why this occurred. If anyone here has some insight on this, please explain why all of this would happen at only 30k miles. I’ve pretty much lost all confidence in this engine at this point because I definitely don’t want to be stranded again on a trip 1000 miles away from home. I love the Jeep and I love the performance of the engine as long as it runs. I’ve also been looking at possibly getting the GDE tune. Would the tune help prevent things like this from happening again?

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[Rusty PW]

From reading what the tech wrote. The seals in the turbo were leaking oil causing all of the problems. Which I agree with. Oil went both into the intake and exhaust sides. You got lucky that the engine didn't go run away mode. That's when the leak is big enough that it keeps running when you shut it off and the engine ends up blowing apart. Look on YouTube for some videos on it.

 

[GeneralMaximus]

Sorry about your engine. Sadly, it’s about what I expect from an italian powerplant

 

[GoatPowder]

I agree with Rusty: Customer loses a turbo that's what I'm generally replacing.

Low boost code was likely set from the exhaust restriction not letting the turbo spool (seen some ISB/L9s get bad enough the boost hoses collapse and engine dies), swirl valve fault from the excess oil and carbon cementing the lil flaps in place.

Only oddball part I see is Low Pressure EGR cooler, no chance in hell the oil got in that guy but tech may have just been doing you a favor while it was cab-up (assuming you didn't get hit full labor rate for replacement).

Actually, if this was warranty and he got all new parts covered, you owe that man a beer.

And only thing I didn't like is the CAC wasn't flushed according to the notes... doesn't mean it wasn't (simplifying all the things you did into a reasonable invoice is infuriating) but might be worth an inquiry.

Only thing I would still keep an eye on is fuel consumption. When turbos let loose it's always "chicken or the egg". Did the turbo seals fail and plug the exhaust? Or did the exhaust plug rapidly and ruin the seals when the turbo wasn't spinning? If you notably drop in MPGs could be a sign of excess sooting (hanging injector/valve, low compression). I don't see a snap acceleration mentioned, but again, might not have wasted the time to type it if it was running cleaning while he had the DOC off.

 

[Mike-len]

From reading what the tech wrote. The seals in the turbo were leaking oil causing all of the problems. Which I agree with. Oil went both into the intake and exhaust sides. You got lucky that the engine didn't go run away mode. That's when the leak is big enough that it keeps running when you shut it off and the engine ends up blowing apart. Look on YouTube for some videos on it.

You call that lucky? It’s all under warranty. That’s beside the point. Shouldn’t be happening at 30k miles.

 

[Mike-len]

I agree with Rusty: Customer loses a turbo that's what I'm generally replacing.

Low boost code was likely set from the exhaust restriction not letting the turbo spool (seen some ISB/L9s get bad enough the boost hoses collapse and engine dies), swirl valve fault from the excess oil and carbon cementing the lil flaps in place.

Only oddball part I see is Low Pressure EGR cooler, no chance in hell the oil got in that guy but tech may have just been doing you a favor while it was cab-up (assuming you didn't get hit full labor rate for replacement).

Actually, if this was warranty and he got all new parts covered, you owe that man a beer.

And only thing I didn't like is the CAC wasn't flushed according to the notes... doesn't mean it wasn't (simplifying all the things you did into a reasonable invoice is infuriating) but might be worth an inquiry.

Only thing I would still keep an eye on is fuel consumption. When turbos let loose it's always "chicken or the egg". Did the turbo seals fail and plug the exhaust? Or did the exhaust plug rapidly and ruin the seals when the turbo wasn't spinning? If you notably drop in MPGs could be a sign of excess sooting (hanging injector/valve, low compression). I don't see a snap acceleration mentioned, but again, might not have wasted the time to type it if it was running cleaning while he had the DOC off.

Everything thing is covered under warranty as it should be on a vehicle with only 30k miles. The only charge to me is I asked them to do the oil change since it was already there. I guess my original post wasn’t clear. If any of you “experts” can give me some clarification as to WHY this would happen on a practically new vehicle, please do explain. Is this going to happen again? Any way to prevent it in the future? What caused it and why was my dpf full?

 

[Hootbro]

Everything thing is covered under warranty as it should be on a vehicle with only 30k miles. The only charge to me is I asked them to do the oil change since it was already there. I guess my original post wasn’t clear. If any of you “experts” can give me some clarification as to WHY this would happen on a practically new vehicle, please do explain. Is this going to happen again? Any way to prevent it in the future? What caused it and why was my dpf full?

Anything built by man has the possibility of failing you at any given time. It is just life and the way it rolls sometimes. Your turn today, my turn tomorrow.

No Magic 8 Ball to say it wont happen again but probably low if the repair was done correctly. Prevention is like anything else, keep it maintained. As to why the DPF was full, @Rusty PW covered it by stating oil was leaking both into the intake and exhaust side and had to go somewhere and that was your DPF.

Not trying to be cynical, but dwelling on the why that is beyond your control and dwelling on the possibility of a negative future outcome is just going to have you become a curmudgeon.

Jeep will not give two shits if you left the brand because whatever other brand you go to, somebody else from over there has a similar shit show story and will replace you.

 

[Jefe1018]

You call that lucky? It’s all under warranty. That’s beside the point. Shouldn’t be happening at 30k miles.

Lucky as in your Jeep broke? No.

Lucky as in your engine didn’t runaway and seriously injure or worse anyone? Absolutely.

Rusty recommended you look up a video on what that looks like… here’s one because sounds like you didn’t.

 

[GoatPowder]

Everything thing is covered under warranty as it should be on a vehicle with only 30k miles. The only charge to me is I asked them to do the oil change since it was already there. I guess my original post wasn’t clear. If any of you “experts” can give me some clarification as to WHY this would happen on a practically new vehicle, please do explain. Is this going to happen again? Any way to prevent it in the future? What caused it and why was my dpf full?

Despite the condescending tone here, you are asking the right questions, and I gave you possible causes and what to monitor.

To break it down further (based on the techs story):

-You either had a manufacturing error on your turbo; meaning tolerances were off and it eventually just destroyed it's own seals. Excess oil plugs the DPF.

-Driver enjoys the chug-chug sound and has caused excessive compressor surge (not saying you did but have seen it, usually from powerstroke guys) and caused seal failure. Excess oil to enter the exhaust plugging the DPF.

-Excessive soot generation from overfueling caused DPF plugging (internal engine diagnosed by pulling the downpipe). Turbo being under excess pressure and not rotating blew the seals. (The one I was concerned there's no notation of diagnoses).

You may have had a failed part and your good now (most likely), or everything that failed was replaced but root cause may still exist. If you don't want to pull your down pipe and check for excess soot your only measurement will be MPG.

This has been my profession for 20 years, parts fail, OEMs are getting lazier at quality control, but that's warranties exist.

 

[Jefe1018]

Despite the condescending tone here, you are asking the right questions, and I gave you possible causes and what to monitor.

To break it down further (based on the techs story):

-You either had a manufacturing error on your turbo; meaning tolerances were off and it eventually just destroyed it's own seals. Excess oil plugs the DPF.

-Driver enjoys the chug-chug sound and has caused excessive compressor surge (not saying you did but have seen it, usually from powerstroke guys) and caused seal failure. Excess oil to enter the exhaust plugging the DPF.

-Excessive soot generation from overfueling caused DPF plugging (internal engine diagnosed by pulling the downpipe). Turbo being under excess pressure and not rotating blew the seals. (The one I was concerned there's no notation of diagnoses).

You may have had a failed part and your good now (most likely), or everything that failed was replaced but root cause may still exist. If you don't want to pull your down pipe and check for excess soot your only measurement will be MPG.

This has been my profession for 20 years, parts fail, OEMs are getting lazier at quality control, but that's warranties exist.

A big part of whatyou’re saying is why I didn’t install the derringer in my truck. Too much pressure can mess things up, engineers typically create tolerances for a reason and the ecldiesel was plenty strong for my liking.

 

[Toothgnasher]

Lucky as in your Jeep broke? No.

Lucky as in your engine didn’t runaway and seriously injure or worse anyone? Absolutely.

Rusty recommended you look up a video on what that looks like… here’s one because sounds like you didn’t.

Huh, small motor like that choking the intake should have stopped the runaway.

 

[Koolcarguy]

You call that lucky? It’s all under warranty. That’s beside the point. Shouldn’t be happening at 30k miles.

These turbos in the modern diesels can and do fail. We have turbos on all major brands fail in the first 50k huge problem we have seen especially on the Fords. We have well over 200k now on our 4 ecodiesels and still no issue's Don't loose confidence in the engine it's a good engine and performs well has out performed 3.6 in repairs by far. Remember even new vehicles can get a faulty part. I here from a good source EOC tune is awesome.

 

[biodiesel]

If any of you “experts” can give me some clarification as to WHY this would happen on a practically new vehicle, please do explain. Is this going to happen again? Any way to prevent it in the future? What caused it and why was my dpf full?

Vehicles are not perfect and neither was yours. Now that you have a new turbo, you should be good to go. There are owners with over 200,000 miles on the Gen 3 Ecodiesels with little to no issues. Switching to the GDE tune will not magically repair or prevent bad parts.

 

[djthumper]

This isn't really a powerplant issue, not really. The fuel pump was finally replaced in February 2024, the rest of the work was completed in June of 2024. How recent was this trip? How may miles have you driven since all of that work was done?

After my fuel pump was replaced, they had to replace my turbo boost tubes due to cracking. I honestly think that it was done while they were in replacing the fuel pump.

 

[sharpsicle]

Shouldn’t be happening at 30k miles.

I always chuckle at a statement like this. As though anyone is saying "it totally should happen!"

Of course it's not supposed to happen. That's why there's a warranty, and why you're getting it fixed for free.

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