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Oracle Flush Mount Tail Lights cracking?

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jjs3845

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I understand some may not have the tools necessary to torque these to a spec and common sense should be used when tightening them. But, whats fully tightened to some may be more or less for others. What I was getting at is if Oracle is going to deny warranties because they claim a simple statement of "over tightened" and their instructions only state "fully tighten", then give some sort of spec to fall on. For example, they could have put in the instructions the following statement: "Tighten screws to 20 in-lbs, over torqueing screws will cause damage to tabs and void warranty". How the end installer chooses to install the lights or to torque them per the manufacturers specs is up to them. There's also statements from Oracle of failures due to the screws being to loose and it breaking the tabs. So whats to loose now. I'm sure common sense was in play for the people who installed them and they broke because it was to loose. I'm sure they didn't just screw in the screws finger tight. I'm sure they snugged them up. But that was possibly to loose?? The vague statements in the instructions and the mediocre warranty denial statements are completely unacceptable on behalf of Oracle. A torque spec can easily be determined.

They are losing more buisness because of this shitty warranty practice than they would from people not buying it because they don't have the necessary tools and don't feel comfortable installing them.
Totally Agree 100%
 

Jefe1018

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I haven't had to do anything with their support but fwiw, my headlights (bought through this forum new in box), tail lights and reverse lights have been good quality. I did have to set the rear lights to LED via JSCAN, but that was it.

Although I have not had a bad time with their products, that does not mean that their product support seems to leave a lot to be desired. It reminds me of something a supervisor told me once:

"If someone calls you a donkey, screw 'em. What do they know? If five people call you a donkey, start looking for ears and a tail"

You can have the best products on the market, but if you don't provide premium customer support to go along with the high-end price - you end up with this thread and the many others all over the internet for it.
 
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JeepOfTheseus

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I feel like I remember seeing you post these before, but maybe it was another member. So apologies if this is a redundant question. How are the backup lights on these?
My purchase was pretty recent - only got them installed a little over a week ago. The reverse lights seemed fine from the video I recorded during the day, but to be honest I guess I haven’t reversed in a dark area since then (my driveway and garage is pretty well lit so I don’t really need/notice the performance of the backup lights).

I’ll try to make it a point to test them out soon and let you know. FWIW I have two 6 CREE cubes that came with my rear bumper, so worst case… ?
 

WILDHOBO

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Allegedly
I’ve been to 85, but it’s just too much work. Granted, mines lifted on 37’s and I was towing. :) 80 is my comfortable limit, which is plenty in my opinion, for a rolling Kleenex box.
 

Jefe1018

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I’ve been to 85, but it’s just too much work. Granted, mines lifted on 37’s and I was towing. :) 80 is my comfortable limit, which is plenty in my opinion, for a rolling Kleenex box.
Allgedly, I may have bounced off the 97mph limiter while passing with my diesel. I'll agree that after about 85 it just becomes very uneasy - the motor and trans have plenty to go but I'm glad that it is limited.
 

hjdca

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I had the Oracle Lights installed on the Gladiator about a month ago. I've read about the over-tightening issues on this forum and made sure to barely tighten the two screws. Everything worked great until few days ago when the driver side just popped out on the freeway while doing 90 mph (don't tell the cops) Basically, the post holding the screws broke off completely. To make matters worse, Oracle won't replace them claiming that the screws were over-tightened! I'll be calling my credit card company shortly refusing the charges for the lights. I'm still going to be out $300+ for purchasing the tazer to make them work which I really didn't need for anything else. In the meantime, curious if anyone else had similar problems with these lights.
IMHO, keep the tazer. You have a Rubicon, so, you can do a lot with it... It is also great that the Tazer reboots the stereo head unit when it stops reading your USB disks or Iphone.
 

ORACLElights

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To address the initial post and any other concerns that were mentioned in this thread please see below. Oracle Lighting prides ourselves on innovative product and excellent customer service. Our team does our best to provide various options for you to choose from and how we can assist you further.

  • LEDs out or water ingress in the taillight.
    • Please contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] with a clear picture of the issue and they will assist with a replacement.
  • Missing speed clips, or the clips are broken off.
    • Replacement clips can be sent to you at no additional cost. Please contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] for assistance.
  • Breakage on the posts when transferring over the BSM Sensor.
    • This tends to happen when the screws are being over torqued causing the studs on the taillight to break. To prevent this from happening, we highly suggest installing the taillights using a hand screwdriver or a drill on a low torque setting. We have had multiple customers proceed with the install by simply gluing the sensor cover closed. If this is not something you are comfortable doing, you can contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] and they can provide an estimate with a special forum member discount applied towards a new set.
  • You experienced the plastic with speed clips has broken after installation.
    • We have not seen this concern reported often. Unfortunately, we have only seen the plastic break when the bolts are overtightened. This can cause small stress fractures in the plastic which will cause it to break over time from vibration. If you still have the pieces that broke off, you can epoxy them back to the light. Use of a strong bonding epoxy such as JB weld or panel bond will effectively hold these together.
  • “Bulb out” error on dash of JT’s with factory LED taillights.
    • If resistors are not present and signal out error still occurs, you can use a Tazer or JSCAN to set for aftermarket tail-lights - This essentially tells the TIPM to stop checking for the OEM wattage values at the taillights.
    • We also have a solution currently in the works, to add an external adapter to your taillights. Our Customer Relations team will be reaching out to you individually if you have completed our online form here to receive an update. Please ensure you have filled out the form if you are looking for a solution as we are very close to getting this accomplished!
 

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sharpsicle

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To address the initial post and any other concerns that were mentioned in this thread please see below. Oracle Lighting prides ourselves on innovative product and excellent customer service. Our team does our best to provide various options for you to choose from and how we can assist you further.

  • LEDs out or water ingress in the taillight.
    • Please contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] with a clear picture of the issue and they will assist with a replacement.
  • Missing speed clips, or the clips are broken off.
    • Replacement clips can be sent to you at no additional cost. Please contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] for assistance.
  • Breakage on the posts when transferring over the BSM Sensor.
    • This tends to happen when the screws are being over torqued causing the studs on the taillight to break. To prevent this from happening, we highly suggest installing the taillights using a hand screwdriver or a drill on a low torque setting. We have had multiple customers proceed with the install by simply gluing the sensor cover closed. If this is not something you are comfortable doing, you can contact our Customer Relations team at [email protected] and they can provide an estimate with a special forum member discount applied towards a new set.
  • You experienced the plastic with speed clips has broken after installation.
    • We have not seen this concern reported often. Unfortunately, we have only seen the plastic break when the bolts are overtightened. This can cause small stress fractures in the plastic which will cause it to break over time from vibration. If you still have the pieces that broke off, you can epoxy them back to the light. Use of a strong bonding epoxy such as JB weld or panel bond will effectively hold these together.
  • “Bulb out” error on dash of JT’s with factory LED taillights.
    • If resistors are not present and signal out error still occurs, you can use a Tazer or JSCAN to set for aftermarket tail-lights - This essentially tells the TIPM to stop checking for the OEM wattage values at the taillights.
    • We also have a solution currently in the works, to add an external adapter to your taillights. Our Customer Relations team will be reaching out to you individually if you have completed our online form here to receive an update. Please ensure you have filled out the form if you are looking for a solution as we are very close to getting this accomplished!
This doesn't really address anything being discussed here. See the quote below:
Unfortunately, we have only seen the plastic break when the bolts are overtightened.
Define this. What counts as 'overtightened'? If you can't give a better explanation of this, you can't expect any of us to avoid doing it. OP specifically stated he under tightened the bolts to avoid this and it still happened. We need clarity, not repetitive vagueness.
 

Rockabillyroy

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You experienced the plastic with speed clips has broken after installation.
  • We have not seen this concern reported often. Unfortunately, we have only seen the plastic break when the bolts are overtightened. This can cause small stress fractures in the plastic which will cause it to break over time from vibration. If you still have the pieces that broke off, you can epoxy them back to the light. Use of a strong bonding epoxy such as JB weld or panel bond will effectively hold these together.

I had the similar issue when trying to get rid of the 'gap'. Those posts are either not designed as well as the oem mount or the plastic is too soft. And the speed clip also seem to be a softer metal. The OEM clips will stop when hand tightening. The ones that come with these lights deform too easily. As suggested in the group buy thread, you guys might considering re-engineering that spot. If anything, given that the OEM design already did the leg work, any aftermarket solution should be equal to or stronger than OEM.
 

Tommyd

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I had the Oracle Lights installed on the Gladiator about a month ago. I've read about the over-tightening issues on this forum and made sure to barely tighten the two screws. Everything worked great until few days ago when the driver side just popped out on the freeway while doing 90 mph (don't tell the cops) Basically, the post holding the screws broke off completely. To make matters worse, Oracle won't replace them claiming that the screws were over-tightened! I'll be calling my credit card company shortly refusing the charges for the lights. I'm still going to be out $300+ for purchasing the tazer to make them work which I really didn't need for anything else. In the meantime, curious if anyone else had similar problems with these lights.
You could lift your truck and do 37s! Then at least you can use your razed for something else?!
 

EddyArnold

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Allgedly, I may have bounced off the 97mph limiter while passing with my diesel. I'll agree that after about 85 it just becomes very uneasy - the motor and trans have plenty to go but I'm glad that it is limited.
"allgedly" that is pretty jarring when it happens, feels someone hit the brakes for you!
 

Jeeperjamie

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Love the response by @ORACLElights wish they would of had that policy when my JKU lights crapped the bed because of water ingress, oh yeah I think they did.
They kept telling me it was condensation but I could see the water pooling in the light. Learned my lesson about them then. Honestly I've had better warranty claims handled by lights I bought from China Companies.
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