aux dies every 5k miles neg lead reads 22v! delete doesnt work help!

[Jaxmax]

this is what i theorized, i think a cable end is mismarked which is why each dealer repair has ended up the same.... 6mos and then a dead battery. So putting in the aux backwords wouldnt automatically blow the system?

the dealer just told me the fuse is blown at n7 and is charging me even though its under warranty and its the same problem. Also if fuse 7 is blown would the car still start and light up or would it be totally dead?

Fuse seven is the fuse for the alternator that charges your batteries, again I am asking who is replacing all these batteries? More then likely dealer caused the problem and yes your batteries will not last long but not months. It should all be warranty if you did not do anything.

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[WILDHOBO]

22 volts is possible if he takes the “car lead” to fender off the negative terminal and someone put the aux battery in backwards, that would turn it into a series connection. That is only way to get 22VDC. I assume the dealer is doing all this work , take it back or go to another dealer. Something is wrong …….Jack

my impression is that this is diy troubleshooting.

Edit: after reading the rest of the posts, maybe not. Sounds like a dealer mistake.

 

[jebiruph]

I think we are going to need pictures to troubleshoot further.

 

[bbilly29]

bump any ideas? the idiots at jeep said its good to go all they did was replace the batteries for the 3rd time.

 

[sharpsicle]

What are you bumping for, exactly? There's lots in this thread that you haven't considered or replied to. Not sure anyone is going to say anything new here.

You have many options. Go to a different dealer. Go to an independent shop. Remove the aux battery entirely and verify the connections. Check all the fuses. I don't mean to sound degrading, but you clearly are not familiar with electrical systems so I think you're going to need some local help on this one. My money is on a bad/reversed install of a battery, but you would need to confirm that yourself using one of the options above.

 

[bbilly29]

just watched a video from A GUY who has my problem where the aux delete doest work his pcr relay was corroded and not making contact on a post....would this make the jeep show 24v as well or is mine installed backwards at the pcr?

 

[bbilly29]

What are you bumping for, exactly? There's lots in this thread that you haven't considered or replied to. Not sure anyone is going to say anything new here.

You have many options. Go to a different dealer. Go to an independent shop. Remove the aux battery entirely and verify the connections. Check all the fuses. I don't mean to sound degrading, but you clearly are not familiar with electrical systems so I think you're going to need some local help on this one. My money is on a bad/reversed install of a battery, but you would need to confirm that yourself using one of the options above.

i bumped because im picking up the car today and need any more ideas, ive answered i think nearly every message that asked a question

 

[bbilly29]

Fuse seven is the fuse for the alternator that charges your batteries, again I am asking who is replacing all these batteries? More then likely dealer caused the problem and yes your batteries will not last long but not months. It should all be warranty if you did not do anything.

yes they said it was 7 and the alternator. they blamed and charged me for blowing it when i didnt blow it, the car was lighting up on the dash until they took it in. the dealer is replacing the batteries each time but i think it might be the pcr now....thoughts?

 

[sharpsicle]

just watched a video from A GUY who has my problem where the aux delete doest work his pcr relay was corroded and not making contact on a post....would this make the jeep show 24v as well or is mine installed backwards at the pcr?

Inspect. Your. Battery. Connections.

The PCR will not change voltage.

Even if it's just removing both the positive and negative leads from the aux battery and testing them with a meter. It really sounds like yours are backwards.

 

[Badunit]

Judging by the wiring diagrams, if the relay is stuck in the energized mode (open) or corroded, the aux battery will not connect to the alternator, and the main battery will not be connected to the things the aux battery runs (radio, keyless ignition node, and a bunch of other electronics). Same if fuse N3 is blown. It appears that the aux will have to run those electronics until it runs out of juice. If the relay is stuck in de-energized mode (and not corroded), everything is connected like it needs to be.

N7 is the fuse to the alternator. If blown then no charging of either battery.

I see no way to get 22V without a battery being in backwards. I'm not clear on where you are measuring this across.

 

[bbilly29]

Judging by the wiring diagrams, if the relay is stuck in the energized mode (open) or corroded, the aux battery will not connect to the alternator, and the main battery will not be connected to the things the aux battery runs (radio, keyless ignition node, and a bunch of other electronics). Same if fuse N3 is blown. It appears that the aux will have to run those electronics until it runs out of juice. If the relay is stuck in de-energized mode (and not corroded), everything is connected like it needs to be.

N7 is the fuse to the alternator. If blown then no charging of either battery.

I see no way to get 22V without a battery being in backwards. I'm not clear on where you are measuring this across.

i tested the negative lead from only one battery on the post (not sure anymore which lead was connected). w one lead and the positive lead on the main it read 22v i triple checked and it held that voltage. when i disconnected and put the other lead it read 12v but the car wouldnt start or light up (dead) i tried the delete once i knew which lead was to the aux because alone that lead read 10v when off the post, but the car would ONLY start w both connected then quickly showed on the dash the voltage dropping from 13v to below 8v and then shut off.

It seems without the aux neg connected it is an open circuit and no juice can get through either battery to the car. with both it closes the circuit but ignores the main batt and shuts down due to the low voltage from the aux. They said N7 was blown but that doesnt explain the delete not working or the 22v. my theory is the pcr is grounding out and connecting its positive volts to a negative(the car) and putting it in series while also not getting charged via the alternator

 

[sharpsicle]

You need to be methodical. Remove things from the equation one-by-one until you find the culprit. It does seem your batteries are in series, and the PCR will NOT do that. A battery would have to be hooked up backwards for that result; a short in a piece of equipment won't do that.

If you remove the aux from the equation and it doesn't start, you either have the main hooked up backwards (unlikely) or a blown fuse or fuse array. You state that with the aux removed it reads 12v. Is that positive or negative 12v with the correct leads on the correct wires? Verify the posts and that the battery isn't somehow installed backwards in the tray.

For me, it's far more likely that your aux is installed backwards and that has been blowing fuses and causing havoc with the computers. Get it disconnected entirely and forget it exists moving forward. Otherwise you'll keep blowing fuses over and over and wondering why nothing is working.

So, I would do just that and test thing out step by step. Right now, you're guessing and thinking too much and not doing enough actual troubleshooting. You've got a serious electrical problem going on and I would recommend not starting the truck until you resolve it. You may need some in-person help.

 

[bbilly29]

You need to be methodical. Remove things from the equation one-by-one until you find the culprit. It does seem your batteries are in series, and the PCR will NOT do that. A battery would have to be hooked up backwards for that result; a short in a piece of equipment won't do that.

If you remove the aux from the equation and it doesn't start, you either have the main hooked up backwards (unlikely) or a blown fuse or fuse array. You state that with the aux removed it reads 12v. Is that positive or negative 12v with the correct leads on the correct wires? Verify the posts and that the battery isn't somehow installed backwards in the tray.

For me, it's far more likely that your aux is installed backwards and that has been blowing fuses and causing havoc with the computers. Get it disconnected entirely and forget it exists moving forward. Otherwise you'll keep blowing fuses over and over and wondering why nothing is working.

So, I would do just that and test thing out step by step. Right now, you're guessing and thinking too much and not doing enough actual troubleshooting. You've got a serious electrical problem going on and I would recommend not starting the truck until you resolve it. You may need some in-person help.

thanks for the reply....it still at jeep im guessing alot because i dont have it to troubleshoot. they say its all good and ready for pick up and that all wires are correct etc etc etc. this is the third exact repair....They said n7 was blown so it should have still started when i tried the aux delete right? I kept asking them to explain the voltage and they said "everythings fine" when i get there this will be my first test. the aux has two pos wires if the one only to the pcr were connected to the neg aux post then the pos aux would be on the neg main post making a series. if this is the case the pcr i think wouldnt work at all and have to act as a ground for the other aux positive to send current to N1. over time it would die due to no alternator charging. again im guessing here.

 

[Hootbro]

This thread is like the movie "Groundhog Day".

 

[Jaxmax]

DO NOT PUT A POSITIVE WIRE TO AUX GROUND. You will blow N-3.
What you are thinking that is happening is the PCR is corroded or stuck open, which means you will still have full power to the fuse array for everything other then the electronics that are connected to the N1 point....So being the main battery would be starting car and handling a lot of the heavy loads the aux battery would be handling the electronics but would not be receiving a charge so limited life until it is dead...perhaps. Dealer should fix it no matter what it is!.....Jack

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