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aux dies every 5k miles neg lead reads 22v! delete doesnt work help!

jebiruph

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all i know is the battery reads 22v tested it multiple times w the aux lead on the main. also my small black wire is connected to the car not the aux and the aux delete doesnt work at all the car is completely dead when i try that.
The first step to troubleshoot this would be to disconnect the aux battery. You seem to be struggling to get the aux battery disconnected and without pictures we can't tell what your doing wrong. If you are disconnecting the aux ground cable and it won't start, then the N3 fuse is probably blown and you need to move the N3 cable to N4.

Take some pictures of what your doing/seeing.
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What multimeter are you using? Got a pic?
 

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You have done something wrong. Look at the info on U tube. Shift Auto can fix it . They know Jeeps, call them for info.
 
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bbilly29

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update, first the assholes made me wait 5 hours for a courtesy ride to the dealership didnt get the car until 430 when it was ready at 930am....asked to see the old fuse and it was n2 not n7 blown which threw me and the rest of us off. That fuse somehow blew before i ever jumped it which is why the aux died doing all the work until it couldnt receive a charge anymore ( who knows when that all started) they blamed me and charged me $280 for the fuse and labor....

the car seemed fine, i tested the neg leads and the car ran w the aux removed and batts read 13v separately and together.... I was a mile away and my AHole light lit up and hasnt shut off since, im traveling cross country so i didnt want to waste more time with them but so far so good. Now i know how to put a jumper from n1 to n2 if this happens again

anyone know why the ahole light wont go off? ive had ess off via tazer anyway.
anyone know why my N2 would have blown on its own pre jumping attempts?

thanks for all your input.
 

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sharpsicle

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update, first the assholes made me wait 5 hours for a courtesy ride to the dealership didnt get the car until 430 when it was ready at 930am....asked to see the old fuse and it was n2 not n7 blown which threw me and the rest of us off. That fuse somehow blew before i ever jumped it which is why the aux died doing all the work until it couldnt receive a charge anymore ( who knows when that all started) they blamed me and charged me $280 for the fuse and labor....

the car seemed fine, i tested the neg leads and the car ran w the aux removed and batts read 13v separately and together.... I was a mile away and my AHole light lit up and hasnt shut off since, im traveling cross country so i didnt want to waste more time with them but so far so good. Now i know how to put a jumper from n1 to n2 if this happens again

anyone know why the ahole light wont go off? ive had ess off via tazer anyway.
anyone know why my N2 would have blown on its own pre jumping attempts?

thanks for all your input.
You said you disconnected the aux battery? If fuse F42 is still in place, that would likely be why. It does a test on the aux at startup by isolating it and if it's disconnected it'll throw an error. Pulling fuse 42 essentially prevents the isolation during the test allowing it to pass.
 
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bbilly29

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You said you disconnected the aux battery? If fuse F42 is still in place, that would likely be why. It does a test on the aux at startup by isolating it and if it's disconnected it'll throw an error. Pulling fuse 42 essentially prevents the isolation during the test allowing it to pass.
i disconnected to test once and started it then put it back its connected but the light doesnt go away
 

sharpsicle

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i disconnected to test once and started it then put it back its connected but the light doesnt go away
It may not go away immediately. Assuming that's what caused the light, I believe it takes a certain number of successful startup tests for it to clear.
 
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bbilly29

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It may not go away immediately. Assuming that's what caused the light, I believe it takes a certain number of successful startup tests for it to clear.
you were right,it went off. now my axel locker light started flashing

so in summary i believe somehow my n2 fuse blew while driving for some reason and over time my aux was doing all the work and i never noticed. it stupidly will work like that until the aux cant be recharged anymore. no warning lights until the pull over warning and then its too late. of course had i known i could have switched out the fuse array for 15 bucks myself and never even seen the dealer who took 7 days to switch it and the aux out. piece of shit service guy was a half retard!
 

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That locker light can be fixed with the Tazer jumper. Northwood 4x4.
 

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I don't like that Tazer thing. Better to replace the sensor and pot it.
 

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I am not a fan of the Tazer but lots of guys use this band aid with no issues.
 
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bbilly29

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I don't like that Tazer thing. Better to replace the sensor and pot it.
whats "pot it" mean? cant the sensor just get sprayed w alcohol or carb cleaner and be res-used?
 
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bbilly29

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thanks for all the feedback. now that ive had time to think I know my N2 fuse blew out on its own during regular driving. I believe this happened 6mos earlier as well when the exact same thing happened during regular driving i just didnt know better back then to check the old fuse....the idiots just blame the battery and replace and blame me for the blown fuses. Anyone have any idea why these fuses are blowing? the only aftermarket thing i have added is a brake controller.
 

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thanks for all the feedback. now that ive had time to think I know my N2 fuse blew out on its own during regular driving. I believe this happened 6mos earlier as well when the exact same thing happened during regular driving i just didnt know better back then to check the old fuse....the idiots just blame the battery and replace and blame me for the blown fuses. Anyone have any idea why these fuses are blowing? the only aftermarket thing i have added is a brake controller.
Didn't you fiddle with it when trying to jump it earlier on?

There was a lot at the beginning of this thread that didn't make any sense or was straight-up wrong, so there's a decent chance the fuse blew from user error. Never addressing it kept killing batteries from that point on, and the fact you measured 22v tells me you did something you shouldn't have.
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