Reasons
Well-Known Member
Love the wheels. What brand and make?Here is mine after Mopar 2" lift installed.315 70R 17s BFG K02
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Love the wheels. What brand and make?Here is mine after Mopar 2" lift installed.315 70R 17s BFG K02
Ion 171. 17” x 9”Love the wheels. What brand and make?
I’m getting anywhere from 14-16 daily driving both highway and country roadsWhat MPG you getting?
That stance looks really good.IMO 315/70R17 is the perfect combo. Jeep recommends additional equipment when installing 37’s. If you’re not wheeling weekly and it’s your daily driver I’d stick with 35’s. 37’s unequivocally put a great strain on the drive tran components. Premature wear is a matter of when not if. 37’s also require more upkeep. 0.02
For reference:
BFG KO2 315/70R17: actual diameter is 34.4 @ 64.5lbs each
BFG KO2 35x12.50R17: actual diameter is 34.5 @ 66.3lbs each
BFG KO2 37x12.50R17: actual diameter is 36.5 @ 69.5lbs each
I did the 315/70R17 option. It looks great without a lift or changing the engineered geometry of the drive tran. No bro dozer look. It’s only .1 smaller than a 35x12.50R17 and weighs a little less. Maybe I’m cautious but I daily drive and do moderate wheeling. I will get everywhere anyone else is running on a trail. Driver input is everything. 37’s are out of the question for me, not worth the extra wear and tear or $$. Full disclosure, I may have opened a controversial can of worms.
37's will require at least a 2" lift, if your not running 4.10 gears, the 37's will seriously drag down the performance of the 3.6! The biggest issue with 37's is the weight and subsequent wear and tear on the front end compnonents, ball joints, steering knuckles, etc... I ran 35's on my JKU without any issues, when I went with 37's, within a year I was replacing ball joints and steering components, and I did not wheel it hard at all.So per the original OP question what are the down sides to going 37 over 35
It can run 35’s with no lift, but I vaguely remember someone in a video saying that the lift would be required to allow for full suspension articulation. Seems this would only present itself in extreme off-road situations.There’s some good discussion being had here on this topic. I don’t remember reading anywhere or seeing any video that Jeep recommends a 2” lift with 35’s. I do specifically remember reading and seeing that the Rubicon can run 35’s without a lift, but any size after that a lift is recommended. It actually seemed like Jeep was proud you could run 35’s with no lift and marketed the fact that it didn’t need anything extra. Like more of an option vs. recommendation for 35’s. Maybe I’m delusional.
It can run 35’s with no lift, but I vaguely remember someone in a video saying that the lift would be required to allow for full suspension articulation. Seems this would only present itself in extreme off-road situations.
Those look great Lee. How noisy are they for a MT?35's with 1 1/2 leveling kit -12 offset CD 137 wheels
Not loud at all but I have always had jeeps with mud tires so road noise doesn't bother me.Those look great Lee. How noisy are they for a MT?
Thanks. I’ve had MTR’s on my JK and they were loud and rough. Those look seriously cool on your JT. I think I’m gonna go with them. Thanks again.Not loud at all but I have always had jeeps with mud tires so road noise doesn't bother me.
I believe I have it set at 34.4 / 34.5 if I remember correctly using the Tazer lite - I have General ATX 315/70/17 on 17x9 - I used a level, tape measure and set it as close to actual as I could.For those of you who went with the 315/70/17 KO2, What diameter did you put in with your Tazer/flascal to get the speedometer calibrated? I will be getting my 315/70/17 KO2 installed late this afternoon and would like to know what worked for everybody else.
Thanks