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37s and drivetrain reliability - is it worth it?

Mac

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I haven’t said 37s. I’ve only spoken to my 35s.

I can’t see how 37s would be different, though at some point the stock brakes won’t have enough clamping force to lock up, at that point, a BBK would be beneficial.

I’ve never suggested otherwise.
What is the title of this thread?
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NachoRuby

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Sure, locked up is locked up.
In the real world 37” tires increase braking distance period. You guys can keep referencing all the articles you want written by engineers talking about brakes and stopping distance on sports cars it is not the same thing, most of the principals apply but none of them address the larger diameter tires and the effect they have on braking distance.
Think about snow, for instance. Think about slamming on your brakes in the snow. Obviously, you'll just go sliding. Would bigger brakes make you slide less, since the wheels are already locked up? Of course not. The only thing that'll stop you faster is better, grippier tires; the brakes have already done their job. They've locked the wheels. Now if you can't lock the wheels, yes you need bigger brakes. If you're suffering brake fade, you need bigger brakes. If not, you don't. The snow example is more extreme, but it's the same thing on dry pavement.
 

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CerOf

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Think about snow, for instance. Think about slamming on your brakes in the snow. Obviously, you'll just go sliding. Would bigger brakes make you slide less, since the wheels are already locked up? Of course not. The only thing that'll stop you faster is better, grippier tires; the brakes have already done their job. They've locked the wheels. Now if you can't lock the wheels, yes you need bigger brakes. If you're suffering brake fade, you need bigger brakes. If not, you don't. The snow example is more extreme in but it's the same thing on dry pavement.
Nacho, He won’t ever get it.
 

NachoRuby

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Weight also increases traction, I am not convinced a JT on 37” tires can consistently lock up the tires, I doubt anyone has actual done it unless they disabled the abs.
You don't have to pull the abs fuse to test this, because abs kicks in when the wheels lock, by definition. If they don't lock, you get no ABS pulsing. If ABS is kicking in, the brakes are locking. If the 37s are setting off the abs, the brakes are big enough.
 

ecidiego

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He changed the argument now he is saying larger tires effect breaking distance that is actually true. No one argued that.

The argument ( which shouldn't be one ) is whether a vehicle will stop shorter using a BBK if the stock brakes can already lock the tires. It won't.
 

Mac

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I do not think the JT brakes are powerful enough for 37" tires and there is more to it than simply saying if they can lock the tires that is it and they can provide the shortest stopping distance. Smaller rotors and calipers cannot provide the same clamping force for the duration of a stop with ABS cycling on and off from 70mph.
 

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hjdca

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I do not think the JT brakes are powerful enough for 37" tires and there is more to it than simply saying if they can lock the tires that is it and they can provide the shortest stopping distance. Smaller rotors and calipers cannot provide the same clamping force for the duration of a stop with ABS cycling on and off from 70mph.
It is not the size of the tires and rims, it is mostly the weight. For Example, the Rubicon Gladiator brakes we know were designed to at least to handle 35 inch tires -- that is what the advertising tells us. You can get a light set of 37s (Kevlar Goodyears) and a light set of rims (Method) that weigh just as much as a set of heavier rims with Nitto trail grapplers or other heavy 35" tires. With this same weight logic, you do not effect stopping distance. I am also following what I preach here, and I can tell you that my light 37s setup stop just as well as my stock 33s did. If you follow the weight, you can get tires and rims that only weigh 10-15 lbs per corner over the 33" stock Rubicon setup.
Note: the stock Rubicon 33" Falken MT are 68 lbs, the 37" version is a whopping 82 lbs... . The 37" Goodyear Kevlar MTR is 71-73 lbs, depending on the literature you find. Get yourself a 26 lbs rim like Method, and your under 100 lbs per corner.
This same logic will also help save your drivetrain because less weight reduces stress.
 

Mac

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It is not the size of the tires and rims, it is mostly the weight. For Example, the Rubicon Gladiator brakes we know were designed to at least to handle 35 inch tires -- that is what the advertising tells us. You can get a light set of 37s (Kevlar Goodyears) and a light set of rims (Method) that weigh just as much as a set of heavier rims with Nitto trail grapplers or other heavy 35" tires. With this same weight logic, you do not effect stopping distance. I am also following what I preach here, and I can tell you that my light 37s setup stop just as well as my stock 33s did. If you follow the weight, you can get tires and rims that only weigh 10-15 lbs per corner over the 33" stock Rubicon setup.
Note: the stock Rubicon 33" Falken MT are 68 lbs, the 37" version is a whopping 82 lbs... . The 37" Goodyear Kevlar MTR is 71-73 lbs, depending on the literature you find. Get yourself a 26 lbs rim like Method, and your under 100 lbs per corner.
This same logic will also help save your drivetrain because less weight reduces stress.
The size of the tires has a large effect on stopping distance also, at least as much as weight, the larger diameter tire increases the leverage on the brakes just as reciprocating mass does.
 

CerOf

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The size of the tires has a large effect on stopping distance also, at least as much as weight, the larger diameter tire increases the leverage on the brakes just as reciprocating mass does.
But locked is locked? Remember? You were in agreement
ABS functions by sensing locked up and backing off a tiny bit and modulating to keep from locking up.

No one is arguing brake fade as you alluded to in post #100 “same clamping force for the duration of a stop with ABS cycling on and off from 70mph.”

Single panic stop, you’re good.
tracking yout JT, you’re not good.
On a mountain pass where you dumbly ride your brakes, probably not good.
 

OnlyOne

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I’ve locked up mine unfortunately in a red light runner scenario. The JT brakes are more than enough to take care of 40s let alone 37s. Not sure why this is so hard to get through these trolls heads. This isn’t a JK. There is absolutely zero need or worry about brake sizes.
I also run these long ,twisty and steep mountain passes in Southwest Colorado with zero brake fade. Ever.

So to answer the original question I wouldn’t at all worry about running 37’s on the Gladiator. It’s a non issue.
 

ShadowsPapa

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He changed the argument now he is saying larger tires effect breaking distance that is actually true. No one argued that.

The argument ( which shouldn't be one ) is whether a vehicle will stop shorter using a BBK if the stock brakes can already lock the tires. It won't.
You summarized the whole thing.
And IMO, if you have brake fade, diagnose the driver first.

On a mountain pass where you dumbly ride your brakes, probably not good.
That's where a stick, or manual mode of the automatic comes in.

Not the same thing, but sort of related -coming back down Pike's Peak, I used the transmission's manual mode. I hardly touched the brake pedal. If you've been there you know the point where they stop you and take brake temperature - mine were hardly warm. I only feathered the brakes to tweak speed coming down when someone wasn't where they should be coming up around a tight turn and I had to fast compensate for them.

Maybe it's why I have never had to change brake pads (or shoes decades ago). My brakes last.
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