Anyone else running 37s no lift?

[ATL_Rubi]

You're missing out. Sway bar disconnect isn't only for rock crawling. I disconnect mine for comfort.

With the tazer it’s super nice to disconnect it on the Atlanta roads as the pot holes can swallow a Prius. Hit a button, and it’s connected and ready to rock for highway use

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[RK Racing]

Screw 37’s………… 40’s with no lift…… I don’t need no stinking lift

 

[cmcveay]

'23 JTR w/ no lift. AEV Borah's and Kanati Trail Hog 37x12.50-17's. Just a little rubbing with the fender when turning to full lock. I do have the 2" AEV Dualsport lift on order to get a little more clearance in the wheel wells and the couple of inches clearance underneath. Have not regeared, that'll happen later this year.

 

[Toddh50]

I was searching through the showcases and i def haven't seen em all. but i notice everyone who is running 37s or bigger are 2in lift min for the most part. As far as i can tell at least for my Mojave, no lift is needed. did i get lucky? or do people lift for more articulation/look? I run with swaybars on trail and full flexed out nothing touches. I kinda like the low and tucked look. the only reason i see to 2in lift is for the 392 swap in the future. AMW4x4 said its needed to clear engine components. If you are running 37s no lift. please share a pic if ya got it.

My profile picture is 37”s with a 3 inch lift

 

[fourfa]

I run with swaybars on trail and full flexed out nothing touches.

Trails vary... The hard stuff around here consists of fields of boulders that will have you turtled out on frame, crossmembers, and center skids at stock height. I went with 3.5” springs but I’d need 5-6” lift for nothing to touch on John Bull or Holcomb Creek (Big Bear BOH trails). Glad its working for you though - I agree it looks cool and no one likes the jump up into the lifted Jeep (dogs, GF, even me)

 

[PuddleJumper]

Trails vary... The hard stuff around here consists of fields of boulders that will have you turtled out on frame, crossmembers, and center skids at stock height. I went with 3.5” springs but I’d need 5-6” lift for nothing to touch on John Bull or Holcomb Creek (Big Bear BOH trails). Glad its working for you though - I agree it looks cool and no one likes the jump up into the lifted Jeep (dogs, GF, even me)

i used a forklift at work to flex it out. went till i could rock it back n forth on 2 tires. figured that was way passed whatever i'd do.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Yes they fit with no lift depending on wheel size and BS, but you need to bump so they don't contact the fenders at full stuff. That won't leave much uptravel for a smooth ride over rough terrain though.

This isn’t wrong, but I am going to add there is an exception- Diesel gladiators have longer bump joust tubes up front 1-3/8” longer??? (This is close someone will correct.) and may not need any front bump added. I do say may because tire size is different by every manufacturer and he is correct wheel size and offset/back spacing is critical…

37x12.5 Patagonia XT’s with 17x8.5 et0 will fit, full flex/ disconnected and “kiss” a small section of the inner liner, and the rear inner corner of the liner needs to be heated/bent inboard.

Rear has a kiss to the liners too, but with the amount of flex required, you will be crawling.

But to add to the above and what “can”. Be done with a diesel…. Diesel up travel sucks stock anyways and you can bottom out on pretty much anything…. So adding a leveling kit, or a Mopar lift with leveling kit, just makes the ride that much nicer….. so yeah- order your 37’s convince the wife a lift is needed after the fact

not finding a full tuck front photo- but here is a rear, stock height…

For reference- when you are “checking” up travel flex with new components and stock bump stops- you should pull the foam joust pads out…. Slowly flex metal to metal in order to guage a full compression hard bottom out…. The foam pads will compress entirely if you hit something hard enough- so check it right. Below is bump pad removed.

 

[CrazyCooter]

This isn’t wrong, but I am going to add there is an exception- Diesel gladiators have longer bump joust tubes up front 1-3/8” longer??? (This is close someone will correct.) and may not need any front bump added. I do say may because tire size is different by every manufacturer and he is correct wheel size and offset/back spacing is critical…

37x12.5 Patagonia XT’s with 17x8.5 et0 will fit, full flex/ disconnected and “kiss” a small section of the inner liner, and the rear inner corner of the liner needs to be heated/bent inboard.

Rear has a kiss to the liners too, but with the amount of flex required, you will be crawling.

But to add to the above and what “can”. Be done with a diesel…. Diesel up travel sucks stock anyways and you can bottom out on pretty much anything…. So adding a leveling kit, or a Mopar lift with leveling kit, just makes the ride that much nicer….. so yeah- order your 37’s convince the wife a lift is needed after the fact

not finding a full tuck front photo- but here is a rear, stock height…

For reference- when you are “checking” up travel flex with new components and stock bump stops- you should pull the foam joust pads out…. Slowly flex metal to metal in order to guage a full compression hard bottom out…. The foam pads will compress entirely if you hit something hard enough- so check it right. Below is bump pad removed.

You are partially correct on this....The diesel has longer bump tubes and requires less front bump extension.

I have found on diesel Rubis with a 4.75 17x8.5 wheel, 37x12.50, average shock lengths, and OE control arm lengths that you need a slight bump extension both f/r. My preference for an easy fix with other benefit is the MetalCloak "Durosprings". When you add extended shock lengths like I do to max out both up/down travel, you need an additional 5/8" up front. In the rear, the tire just contacts the inner fender which I feel is acceptable.

Obviously the gas rigs will require more up front because of the shorter bump tubes. I haven't done any custom build suspensions on gas rigs, so I'd have to flex test before I could give an exact number.

Start swapping control arms with other lengths and/or a correction bracket and you will have more fender clearance problems. I have found that I don't like the control arm numbers that the manufacturers suggest in the instructions because they make the tires contact earlier limiting available travel so I substitute my own. I spent an entire day with the forklift tuning arm lengths and machining custom bump spacer pucks..........

Again, my extensive testing has been with the Diesel models and I have only put together 2 gas trucks and just delivered with the kits bumps which were very limiting.

Another thing to point out here is that one should not be using the sway bars to limit travel as that is not a constant and could find the tire eating the fender should you encounter serious flex on a trail. I suggest that you disconnect, test, add bump as needed, and then reconnect. A connected stiff front bar will make the rear stuff more......likewise........a disconnected front bar will make the rear bar stuff the front harder.

 

[Stormtroopin]

You're missing out. Sway bar disconnect isn't only for rock crawling. I disconnect mine for comfort.

That’s cool, everyone has their own comfort. I wonder why jeep toyota Ford and everyone else that make high speed off-road vehicles skip the sway bar disconnect…..almost as if they know something.

 

[Rahkmalla]

That’s cool, everyone has their own comfort. I wonder why jeep toyota Ford and everyone else that make high speed off-road vehicles skip the sway bar disconnect…..almost as if they know something.

You're absolutely right. I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm talking about. As you suggested, i don't know anything. I haven't ridden in my vehicle with the sway bars both disconnected and connected on the same trails, beaches, and fire roads. My knowledge and personal experience on the matter is exactly equal in value to your broad suppositions and zero personal experience.

But just as a thought exercise: is there any reason why Jeep might force their SBD to reconnect above 25mph on the rubicon? Because if you're not aware, vehicle manufacturers sometimes make decisions based not on what makes the vehicle the best, but rather their expectations of liability.

How many posts do you see here about people binding up their truck in 4hi on pavement because they thought rain was slippery enough? Now change those posts to "why did my truck roll when i was doing 80mph on route 70? All i did was turn my sway bar disconnect on at high speed!"

 

[Stormtroopin]

You're absolutely right. I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm talking about. As you suggested, i don't know anything. I haven't ridden in my vehicle with the sway bars both disconnected and connected on the same trails, beaches, and fire roads. My knowledge and personal experience on the matter is exactly equal in value to your broad suppositions and zero personal experience.

But just as a thought exercise: is there any reason why Jeep might force their SBD to reconnect above 25mph on the rubicon? Because if you're not aware, vehicle manufacturers sometimes make decisions based not on what makes the vehicle the best, but rather their expectations of liability.

How many posts do you see here about people binding up their truck in 4hi on pavement because they thought rain was slippery enough? Now change those posts to "why did my truck roll when i was doing 80mph on route 70? All i did was turn my sway bar disconnect on at high speed!"

I just laugh at snowflakes nowadays. You do you bro…..

 

[CrazyCooter]

I just don't understand why every thread has to turn into a pissing match..........

This immature behavior is exactly why I find myself checking out of the forums.........Why bother!

One person's inability to understand why something is done and why it isn't done another time....Then spewing their opinion as fact? Not every person uses their vehicle the same nor does every type of vehicle get used in the same manner.

You will find an entire forum on the Toyota side talking trash about why someone would want a POS Gladiator and the same goes over here. Fact is different vehicle, different tool, different desires........

To sway bar or not? Hmmmmm......There is no wrong answer because there are many different scenarios!

 

[PuddleJumper]

You're absolutely right. I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm talking about. As you suggested, i don't know anything. I haven't ridden in my vehicle with the sway bars both disconnected and connected on the same trails, beaches, and fire roads. My knowledge and personal experience on the matter is exactly equal in value to your broad suppositions and zero personal experience.

But just as a thought exercise: is there any reason why Jeep might force their SBD to reconnect above 25mph on the rubicon? Because if you're not aware, vehicle manufacturers sometimes make decisions based not on what makes the vehicle the best, but rather their expectations of liability.

How many posts do you see here about people binding up their truck in 4hi on pavement because they thought rain was slippery enough? Now change those posts to "why did my truck roll when i was doing 80mph on route 70? All i did was turn my sway bar disconnect on at high speed!"

woah. personally i did not mean to imply that u had no idea what you were doing. i rand no sway bars on my tundra for years and it was just fine. idk what your trails look like, or what your idea of high speed is. every personal situation is unique and therefore one size does NOT fit all. disconnects work for you and they suck for me. it worked great for my tundra though so i understand what u mean and why you decide to do it. I just no the one time i did it in my mojave i was miserable. that doesn't make you wrong and im sorry if i came off that way. I just wanted see people with 37s and hear thier mileage, not start a pissing match. maybe one of these days i'll figure out how to properly imply sarcasm when commenting.

 

[PuddleJumper]

With the tazer it’s super nice to disconnect it on the Atlanta roads as the pot holes can swallow a Prius. Hit a button, and it’s connected and ready to rock for highway use

thats a cool feature.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Screw 37’s………… 40’s with no lift…… I don’t need no stinking lift

GAWD DAMN BROTHER. stock bumper too?! absolute CHAD.

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