Front/Rear Diff Service - DIY

[g2020]

a job I want to tackle

For DIY, see Requirements for Changing Oil & Filter, Differential Fluid, and Transfer Case Fluid.

A proper API GL-5 gear oil will work for the axles/differentials. Use ATF+4 for the transfer case. See tables 1.3 and 1.9 in Links to Prices.

For gear oil, Valvoline is widely available, includes friction modifier, and uses squeeze-bag packaging which makes it easy to install. Use 75W-85 or 75W-90 for the front axle, and 75W-140 for the rear axle. In Key Info, see manufacturer specifications at the top, and "Trailer towing" under Important Reminders.

Valvoline ATF+4 is exactly the same as MOPAR.

You will need to buy two quarts of each. The total DIY cost of these fluids is about $90.

Here's a dealer invoice for these jobs:

262.50 Labor (excluding price of alignment)
214.96 Parts
26.95 Misc (negotiable to zero)
504.41 Total charges
17.73 Tax (8.25% on parts only)
522.14 Total paid

- The labor rate of 199.95 has remained the same since at least 2021.
- Parts prices (for fluids) may have changed, but some dealers are using MOPAR equivalents, such as BG Products, to keep prices down and maintain margins.
- The twelve (12) units of gear oil might be pints (= six quarts), especially given the unit price. When using the same viscosity grade (75W-90 in this case) for both axles, a total of three quarts of gear oil is required. The two (2) bottles of friction modifier (4318060AD, 4 fl oz) are also twice as much as required. I had this service done before I joined this forum and started doing these fluid changes myself.

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[SaiintNick]

Was quoted $429 for front differential and another $429 for the rear differential by the dealer. Not a job I want to tackle. Prices out of line? They also wanted to do the transfer case for $479 but they never read their history and I had a leak and it was done under warranty.

My Valvoline shop said $100 per axle.

 

[Hootbro]

Was quoted $429 for front differential and another $429 for the rear differential by the dealer. Not a job I want to tackle. Prices out of line? They also wanted to do the transfer case for $479 but they never read their history and I had a leak and it was done under warranty.

What about it makes you not want to do it yourself? Fluid cost would be under $150 even with some boutique branded gear oils.

 

[Chance575]

Use Lucas non synthetic 85-140, all the gear shop recommended it, I’ve been searching lately , I’m almost done with this

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Probably been said in one of the other pages, but if you happen to mess up your gasket you can just put a bead of silicone in it's place and call it a day. Just make sure you get good "squeeze out" all around.

 

[SaiintNick]

Just had my front and rear diff oil changed at a local I shop I trust. I did it at 27K miles because I figured no diff has ever failed because of clean oil or maintenance done too early. They charged me $170 for both front and rear.

 

[PDACPA]

Just had my front and rear diff oil changed at a local I shop I trust. I did it at 27K miles because I figured no diff has ever failed because of clean oil or maintenance done too early. They charged me $170 for both front and rear.

Thanks.
My Dealer claims the "parts" (guess they mean fluids) cost more than $200 per axle. I told them I will pass.

Anyone in Tampa have a local shop you recommend for it?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thanks.
My Dealer claims the "parts" (guess they mean fluids) cost more than $200 per axle. I told them I will pass.

Anyone in Tampa have a local shop you recommend for it?

I do in treasure island.

 

[Mojave20]

Thanks.
My Dealer claims the "parts" (guess they mean fluids) cost more than $200 per axle. I told them I will pass.

Anyone in Tampa have a local shop you recommend for it?

No personal experience but have always heard others speak well of red scorpion fabworks.

 

[Capngeo]

Just looked at my diff oils (26k miles in a '23)
Front was good, still looked new, put the plug back in.
Rear was BLACK! Sucked it out and refilled with GL-5 Redline with friction modifier for the limited slip.
I think I'll bump up my service interval!

 

[WILDHOBO]

While paint was drying on the driver side frame in the wheel well, I ended up on a tangent. I cut some UHMW and fitted it to my hitch skid. It’ll probably only last 3 hard wheeling trips, but it’s easily replaceable now that the skid is drilled. Maybe I won’t take so much of the rocks home with me now. And I lipsticked my pig of a receiver. It had started to show some rust. Yes. There is a 2” square of paint on my spare tire. No. I don’t care.

 

[WILDHOBO]

While paint was drying on the driver side frame in the wheel well, I ended up on a tangent. I cut some UHMW and fitted it to my hitch skid. It’ll probably only last 3 hard wheeling trips, but it’s easily replaceable now that the skid is drilled. Maybe I won’t take so much of the rocks home with me now. And I lipsticked my pig of a receiver. It had started to show some rust. Yes. There is a 2” square of paint on my spare tire. No. I don’t care.

Clearly I’m foggy as this was the wrong thread for this. Oh well.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Just looked at my diff oils (26k miles in a '23)
Front was good, still looked new, put the plug back in.
Rear was BLACK! Sucked it out and refilled with GL-5 Redline with friction modifier for the limited slip.
I think I'll bump up my service interval!

well, as someone with similar miles in a ‘23 I know what I’ll be checking soon

 

[Capngeo]

Clearly I’m foggy as this was the wrong thread for this. Oh well.

I HATE it when that happens!

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