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Front/Rear Diff Service - DIY

WILDHOBO

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You can definitely do both. For the transfer case, get a hand pump at least, to put fluid back in. Otherwise it’s very easy.

For the diffs without bottom drains, don’t bother removing the fill plug initially. Just put a bucket under the diff, loosen all the bolts, but don’t remove, and gently by hand crack the bottom edge. Let it drain. Then remove the cover and be careful with the gasket, but they’re absolutely reusable. I wouldn’t replace the cover. For cleaning the cover, just wipe it with throw away lint free paper towels. No need for parts cleaner, and you don’t want it missing with the diff fluid anyway. Check for any chunks of metal. If there isn’t anything more than VERY smooth metal sand on the magnetic fill plug, you’re good. No cleaning inside the housing. Just leave it unless there is metal. That’s a different story if there is. You almost certainly won’t have any issues. Put the clean cover back on with finger tight bolts only. Then carefully tighten with hand tools only in a star pattern. No torque wrench is necessary. Just common sense method. If it leaks, tighten slightly more. I’ve never had either of mine leak after a bunch of intervals with the original gaskets. Refil through the fill hole until it drips out. Close and wipe off. Enjoy.
In addition, if you’re not prepared for a bit of a project, I’d skip the transmission. I’ve done it and it’s very doable, but it’s a very specific process to fill it, and it really needs two people to get it right. And a VERY large rectangular funnel to not get fluid everywhere during the pan drop.
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g2020

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it really needs two people to get it right. And a VERY large rectangular funnel to not get fluid everywhere during the pan drop.
With a little help from @Maximus Gladius (all-in-one fill) and @Gatorac (J-shaped pickup tube for pre-drain), a pan drop has become a one-person, less-messy job. The Pan Drop Instructions are the same for gas or diesel.

I agree that the job is not difficult, but that it is a project. Read the instructions first, and start early in the morning.
 
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DylanM

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Nice.

And yes as stated before 21’s and up do not have the plugs.
FWIW, I have a late production '21 (mid-June 2021) and it has the diff drain plugs. The drain plug delete started around the time the '22 models were introduced.
 
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Sigz

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Appreciate the posts and help.

My dealership has been pretty good to me. A small perk of buying my JT there is free lifetime oil changes. I've been using them since purchase and have had zero problems.

I'm contemplating just letting them do the differential service as they have treated me right - and if problems arise, it won't be on me.

Something tells me that I could very easily do it on my own from these posts ( and even my oil change) show that its pretty straight forward.

But honestly, with the way things have been going recently - on top of a busy work scheudle, a tired wife, an energetic 4 year old, and a very vocal 1 year old about to walk - something tells me paying $300 for the dealer to do it when I get my oil chaned this week is the right call.
 

Hootbro

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FWIW, I have a late production '21 (mid-June 2021) and it has the diff drain plugs. The drain plug delete started around the time the '22 models were introduced.
It was not a clean cut in and there was stragglers.
 

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WILDHOBO

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With a little help from @Maximus Gladius (all-in-one fill) and @Gatorac (J-shaped pickup tube for pre-drain), a pan drop has become a one-person, less-messy job. The Pan Drop Instructions are the same for gas or diesel.

I agree that the job is not difficult, but that it is a project. Read the instructions first, and start early in the morning.
I bought a massive rectangular funnel, and duct taped it to a 3 gallon bucket. Rectangle is twice the size of the pan. It made it quite doable. The two person thing is the fill while someone is in the cab watching the temps.
 

g2020

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I bought a massive rectangular funnel, and duct taped it to a 3 gallon bucket. Rectangle is twice the size of the pan. It made it quite doable. The two person thing is the fill while someone is in the cab watching the temps.
You may not have seen the Pan Drop Instructions that I coauthored with @Maximus Gladius. Very carefully written. No shortage of detail. A pan drop is now a one-person job and there's no mess.

Problem: Removing the Transmission Oil Pan makes a mess
Solution: J-shaped pickup tube
Source: SECTION 3 Steps 22-23 and Recommendation appearing before SECTION 8 Step 7 in Pan Drop Instructions
Result: No spill, no mess

Problem: Filling the Transmission requires two people
Solution: ATF108 (M18x1.5) adapter and 2-gallon fill pump
Source: SECTION 10 Steps 1-2, SECTION 10 Option B Steps 3-16, SECTION 11 Steps 1-27, and SECTION 12 (entire section, it's short) in Pan Drop Instructions
Result: All-in-one fill, ATF level checks, and timed shifting sequence completed with no helper
 

WILDHOBO

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You may not have seen the Pan Drop Instructions that I coauthored with @Maximus Gladius. Very carefully written. No shortage of detail. A pan drop is now a one-person job and there's no mess.

Problem: Removing the Transmission Oil Pan makes a mess
Solution: J-shaped pickup tube
Source: SECTION 3 Steps 22-23 and Recommendation appearing before SECTION 8 Step 7 in Pan Drop Instructions
Result: No spill, no mess

Problem: Filling the Transmission requires two people
Solution: ATF108 (M18x1.5) adapter and 2-gallon fill pump
Source: SECTION 10 Steps 1-2, SECTION 10 Option B Steps 3-16, SECTION 11 Steps 1-27, and SECTION 12 (entire section, it's short) in Pan Drop Instructions
Result: All-in-one fill, ATF level checks, and timed shifting sequence completed with no helper
I have not! But I’ll check it out when I change the fluid again. Thanks! I don’t need the drop the pan as I now have a drain plug, but the fill procedure will be great.
 

ChrisNLA

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Appreciate the posts and help.

My dealership has been pretty good to me. A small perk of buying my JT there is free lifetime oil changes. I've been using them since purchase and have had zero problems.

I'm contemplating just letting them do the differential service as they have treated me right - and if problems arise, it won't be on me.

Something tells me that I could very easily do it on my own from these posts ( and even my oil change) show that its pretty straight forward.

But honestly, with the way things have been going recently - on top of a busy work scheudle, a tired wife, an energetic 4 year old, and a very vocal 1 year old about to walk - something tells me paying $300 for the dealer to do it when I get my oil chaned this week is the right call.
Never bad to call it someone else problem.

There isn't much I don't know how to do to some degree be it on a vehicle or a house - but some things I just make other folks problem now 😂 Time is one resource I'm limited on.
 

Tim

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Sorry to potentially thread jack... I just had my gears swapped to 5.13s and I decided to throw on the Dana Spicer nodular iron diff covers when I did my 500 mile break-in oil change. I was surprised that in the Dana Spicer instructions they explicitly state not to reuse the factory gasket as the nodular diff covers are thicker than the stock covers and there may not be enough bolt engagement. The diff covers came with a tube of RTV and new bolts. It's a little weird to me that they didn't just include longer bolts since. Anyway, I've seen a few guys state they re-used the gaskets with aftermarket diff covers. Anyone ever hear of issues arising from this? It sure would be more convenient to use the gaskets and not RTV...
 

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Maximus Gladius

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Sorry to potentially thread jack... I just had my gears swapped to 5.13s and I decided to throw on the Dana Spicer nodular iron diff covers when I did my 500 mile break-in oil change. I was surprised that in the Dana Spicer instructions they explicitly state not to reuse the factory gasket as the nodular diff covers are thicker than the stock covers and there may not be enough bolt engagement. The diff covers came with a tube of RTV and new bolts. It's a little weird to me that they didn't just include longer bolts since. Anyway, I've seen a few guys state they re-used the gaskets with aftermarket diff covers. Anyone ever hear of issues arising from this? It sure would be more convenient to use the gaskets and not RTV...
I would hate to have to deal with RTV every time I needed to service the diff. Why not locate longer bolts from a “bolt and nut” warehouse and swap them out? They’d have to be automotive bolts but should be able to find them.
 
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Hootbro

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Sorry to potentially thread jack... I just had my gears swapped to 5.13s and I decided to throw on the Dana Spicer nodular iron diff covers when I did my 500 mile break-in oil change. I was surprised that in the Dana Spicer instructions they explicitly state not to reuse the factory gasket as the nodular diff covers are thicker than the stock covers and there may not be enough bolt engagement. The diff covers came with a tube of RTV and new bolts. It's a little weird to me that they didn't just include longer bolts since. Anyway, I've seen a few guys state they re-used the gaskets with aftermarket diff covers. Anyone ever hear of issues arising from this? It sure would be more convenient to use the gaskets and not RTV...
I can say from experience of trying that the Teraflex covers will not work with the OEM gaskets. The setscrew they use to aid release, interferes and will eventually leak at that area. Tried a few tricks but it still would leak. RTV as instructed worked fine.

I have used DANA nodular covers with the OEM gasket but just bought 5mm longer bolts and have no issues.
 

Hootbro

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sawman

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I did the lazy diff change and just pumped it out at 40k. (I know here come the comments)
Front looked like new oil but back was dirty.
Meh, ain't no biggie. I have a 2020 with 156k miles and has yet to have the pumpkin oil changed. Or the tranny for that matter. Then again, she's a road queen and hasn't seen mud in at least two months.
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