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Gladiator "dead" half-way around the globe

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Tim Hall

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Will the truck go into run mode? Maybe setting into neutral vs park.. might also be worth a shot to check the brake switch under the pedal.
It will not go in RUN mode. I cannot put in the Neutral when Jeep is OFF, I could just pull the lever to tow it if necessary but I don't think it's really like switching to Neutral for the electrical system.

The brake switch/detector which can be faulty cross my mind, I push the break as hard as as can at one point because I was thinking the start system didn't detect it. Break light are working normally btw. But it may be the case it's faulty

I need to find where it and how to check it.
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kb5zcr

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My understanding is that these don't actually have a locking steering column because the key/lock is not on the steering column anymore.

You can pull off the small dash area where the start button is located (youtube can show you how to get it off) and see if the red wire going to the start button has 12 volts. I've pulled this apart before and its pretty easy to do once you know where to pry.
 
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Tim Hall

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Thanks for the suggestion. I check with multimeter the voltage on each N Stud, but didn't remove completely the high fuse array to check for continuity. I will do it today.
I m so dumb. I remove the fuse array. N3 is dead.

Why I did i check the voltage on the Stud and not remove the fuse array before. Feel dumb.

I will try to get a spare ship to me.

During waiting for spare, can I try to use N4 ?

Or bypass aux ?

Which is best solution ?
 

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I m so dumb. I remove the fuse array. N3 is dead.

Why I did i check the voltage on the Stud and not remove the fuse array before. Feel dumb.

I will try to get a spare ship to me.

During waiting for spare, can I try to use N4 ?

Or bypass aux ?

Which is best solution ?
Use N4. Bypassing aux won't help with a blown N3, but it will help avoid blowing it in the future.
 

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Tim Hall

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I moved N3 to N4 and tried to press start several times, but the same messages still appear on the dashboard. I'll try again tomorrow and order new fuse arrays. I hope it won't take too long to get them in Asia. That's great we found something

Regarding the steering wheel lock, when I move it to either side a bit, it hits a hard mechanical stop. It's not like it's becoming progressively harder to move. I checked the equipment list with my VIN, and it seems that under standard equipment, there is an "ELEC. STEERING COLUMN SHAFT LOCK." So, nothing unconventional as it's under standard ?

Could it be acting like an anti-theft mechanism, locking the column, and preventing me from unlocking the wheel and moving ignition switch to ACC/RUN ? "service vehicle protection system" message seem like a security issue. I was hoping with the fuse issue "resolve", it would go away.
 

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Tim -
Unfortunately I don’t have any constructive to help with your dilemma but when you get this figured out I’d like to find out more about your travels.

We’re flying into Zurich in a couple of months and meeting a friend to travel to Algeria and Tunisia for about 6 weeks. I’m envious of your travels!

Hope you get it figured out.
 

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Can you get the vehicle in neutral? If so try getting a full rotation of your wheels. Then try again.

2nd suggestion investigate the ignition switch (fully), disconnect and reconnect, fuse, etc.

3rd try a different starter

4th disconnect all power for 24 hrs try again.

All may sound stupid but sometimes stupid is all.it takes.
 

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I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as the battery in his key fob??
 

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I would bet that if the steering lock won't disengage when you attempt to start the vehicle then the security system will also not disengage. My guess is that the steering lock is what's preventing you from starting. I had this happen in my girlfriend's Lexus after it was towed. We had to roll the vehicle a bit while holding pressure on the steering column for the lock to disengage. Once that happened it fired right up with no further issues. '

Hope this helps (or getting the new fuse as above). Please let us know what the fix was!
 

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Can you get the vehicle in neutral? If so try getting a full rotation of your wheels. Then try again.

2nd suggestion investigate the ignition switch (fully), disconnect and reconnect, fuse, etc.

3rd try a different starter

4th disconnect all power for 24 hrs try again.

All may sound stupid but sometimes stupid is all.it takes.
What about accessing the little hatch in front of the shifter to disengage the whole system and move it that way. It's what wreckers use to get the truck up on a flatbed.
 
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Tim Hall

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I've lost my patience and booked a tow truck to take my car 900km to the nearest Jeep service center.

I was preparing my car for the Jeep dealership by unplugging my Tazer Mini and plugging the SGW cable back in. While doing this, I touched my amplifier and found it was extremely hot.

I checked my batteries, and they were lower than they were 24 hours ago.

The tow truck will arrive tomorrow, but I still have time to check for a bad ground connection in this loop or possible rodent damage.
 

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I've lost my patience and booked a tow truck to take my car 900km to the nearest Jeep service center.

I was preparing my car for the Jeep dealership by unplugging my Tazer Mini and plugging the SGW cable back in. While doing this, I touched my amplifier and found it was extremely hot.

I checked my batteries, and they were lower than they were 24 hours ago.

The tow truck will arrive tomorrow, but I still have time to check for a bad ground connection in this loop or possible rodent damage.
sorry to hear this man. But I'm with you on the rodents thing. Jeeps are made with synthetic insulation protecting all of its wire. That insulation is corn based not petroleum based. Therefore very enticing to rodents of all types if left sitting. On the Brightside, Thankfully your Jeep hasn't caught fire like some do when suffering similar issues. cough cough 4xE cough. Hopefully they'll get ya sorted.
 

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Please keep us updated with what you find out. Good luck!
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