Diesel cooling options and ideas

[av8or]

I'm struggling. I can't find a spot for an oil cooler right now. I'm contemplating if I can mount it to the hood.

if i remember correctly, that's one of the avenues bulletproof diesel in phx was looking at for the jeep diesels

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[ZoneArc]

if i remember correctly, that's one of the avenues bulletproof diesel in phx was looking at for the jeep diesels

I think it's the best avenue. Strip a section of the insulation and mount it right under one of the Cowl vents.

Install one of the Cowl vent kits that makes a ram air scoop.

Run the hoses back and down the firewall so it lifts easy with no interference.

This would give active cooling to a simple Derale oil cooler at highway speeds and cool 2g of oil a minute.

I need to Strip the insulation next when I get home to see how it might mount.

Right now I'm at an offroad event in TX so now isn't the time! Lol

 

[azaustin]

Just curious how you are manually engaging the engine fan. Is there something in the off road software that that will let you do this, or are you just bypassing the fan relay?

 

[bl1ndman]

Just curious how you are manually engaging the engine fan. Is there something in the off road software that that will let you do this, or are you just bypassing the fan relay?

You can turn the man on with the Tazer JL

 

[ZoneArc]

It's been a while since I posted in this thread. I went and used insane diesel oil filter kit and tied in an oil cooler and place it in front of the radiator. It added 2 qt of oil for total capacity to the system. Since I'm on 40" tires and on 4.88 gears at 85 miles per hour on the highway It frequently climbs oil temperatures to 246ﾟ. However after Installing the oil cooler and filter, I have not seen oil temperatures go beyond 234ﾟ and that is under heavy load. Therefore I have seen a temperature decrease on EOT of at least 12ﾟ by using a bypass filter.

 

[Sank]

It's been a while since I posted in this thread. I went and used insane diesel oil filter kit and tied in an oil cooler and place it in front of the radiator. It added 2 qt of oil for total capacity to the system. Since I'm on 40" tires and on 4.88 gears at 85 miles per hour on the highway It frequently climbs oil temperatures to 246ﾟ. However after Installing the oil cooler and filter, I have not seen oil temperatures go beyond 234ﾟ and that is under heavy load. Therefore I have seen a temperature decrease on EOT of at least 12ﾟ by using a bypass filter.

Great job!

Can you take pictures of the installation and list part numbers for the benefit of others looking for something like that as well?

 

[Glendawg619]

It's been a while since I posted in this thread. I went and used insane diesel oil filter kit and tied in an oil cooler and place it in front of the radiator. It added 2 qt of oil for total capacity to the system. Since I'm on 40" tires and on 4.88 gears at 85 miles per hour on the highway It frequently climbs oil temperatures to 246ﾟ. However after Installing the oil cooler and filter, I have not seen oil temperatures go beyond 234ﾟ and that is under heavy load. Therefore I have seen a temperature decrease on EOT of at least 12ﾟ by using a bypass filter.

Yup some as above, please document install location and parts needed.

 

[ZoneArc]

I'm not going to do a detailed write-up because unless you're comfortable with fabrication and if you know nothing about working on your own truck, then you shouldn't do this.
For the DIY crowd, I'll write some notes and give some links to how we did this. Overall, for the DIY crowd (you are DIY if you are willing to install your own lift kit, drill and modify brackets, etc), this is a minor project and should take you no more than 3 hours.

Main part of the kit and installation is here:

https://insanediesel.com/pages/ecodiesel-3-0l-bypass-oil-filter-installation

This is a kit by Insane Diesel, which is generic and meant to apply to all 3.0L EcoDiesel vehicles (GC, Ram, JT, JL). For the other vehicles, there is a bracket that provides an easy bolt on solution. However, due to space constraints, there is no direct-mount option in the Gladiator.

If you decide to tackle this project, I suggest you have a vice, hammer, drill, and have experience with mild fabrication, and some patience.

1. Buy this kit:
   https://insanediesel.com/collection...gler-3-0l-ecodiesel-bypass-oil-filtration-kit
   
   Add the Filter Cap and an extra roll of hose. They can provide all of that.
   Also, purchase this generic bracket:
   https://insanediesel.com/collections/brackets/products/cummins-uth-bracket-only-1999-2013
   
   
2. The instructions I posted above document the MOPAR part # of the oil filter you need. Order it online.
   
   
3. Buy this cooler or something similar. I chose this to fit between the grill and radiator.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KGJQDZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Once the equipment is in, open your hood and look down the driver's side towards the motormount. The motormount has 2 bolts. Now, look at the bracket. You're going to have to drill a new hole in that mount to fit the spacing of the bolts in the motormount, but also "clock" it a few degrees towards the fender.
   Now, crawl under the vehicle and lift the mount in place and have a helper mark where the holes will go from the top. Then, drill through the mount.
   
   
5. Pull your motormount bolts, go to the hardware store and buy Grade 8 hardware that's 1" longer so you have room for a nut, washer on top & bottom, and you will sandwich in the bracket on top of the motormount with this new hardware.
6. Mount the bracket. Wait on the filter, you'll want to run all of your hoses to it, then mount it as per Insane Diesel's instructions and then route them to the Filter Cap, Oil Cooler and Oil Cap that come with their kit.
   
   
7. If you followed their instructions you are now done with the installation. 70% of the install is their standard install. The only thing you did is plumb in the additional cooler in front of your grill with an extra length of hose and you mounted the can in your own way.
   
   
8. Now, I suggest you pour 1 qt of oil in to the engine, run it for 3 minutes, then turn it off. Wait 5 minute and then check oil level. You are likely ~1 qt low and adjust accordingly. Don't pull the oil cap off while running as this is a return line now and so it'll dump everywhere.
   
   

 

[ZoneArc]

We lightly dusted the silver oil cooler with black spraypaint so it blends in behind the grill more without affecting its ability to cool.
Also, removing the filter is actually very easy. We left enough slack on it so you can remove the 1 bolt, raise it up and down and it's ready to unscrew.
Since the filter lasts 15-25k miles, that's every 2-3 oil changes, so for most people it's a once a year pull and swap. We did a mock swap and it took 3.5 minutes.

Also, I took the JT for a 3 hr drive this morning from my rural property to Austin and back. Lots of overpasses and an average speed of 87mph on the highway. My JT is ~5" lift, bed rack, heavy bumpers, 40" tires, 4.88 gears and TONS of other stuff .. so its a heavy rig and geared too low for standard driving, so I'm running at 2500 RPMs at that speed (which is high for a diesel) in 8th gear. In the past I could see temps above 250 EOT at consistent speeds like that. Now? The peak I saw was 139 today for a very brief period of time as I lost some air when drafting two side by side semi's until I was able to get past.

I'm very happy with the results. Although, knowing that I was able to drop temps by 10+ by just doing a BYPASS filter, I can only imagine how effective a TRUE oil cooler would be. If we could get someone to create an oil pan and pump that can pull and cycle, it would allow for dramatically faster oil cycling.

I was playing with an active fan on an oil cooler, even for the bypass, but I couldn't locate a suitable place to mount it. I have a Rubicon and even considered mounting it on the hood under one of the scoops, but there's only 1/2" between the hood and engine so there's just no way to add the additional 1.5" most fans would add to the overall width. So for now, I suspect this is the best we get.

Long term, I hope someone can make a custom radiator. 3 chamber, including oil cooler, trans cooler and coolant with a stronger fan and take up every possible inch in the front you can. Maybe that'll be the end-game.

 

[Overland-2021]

Nicely done.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[mrmo]

Two other port at the base of the oil cooler, May be possible access for a remote cooler

Theres the spot, pull those and see whats behind them. Fittings, hoses, brackets, plate cooler w fan on a thermostat. Solves the oil cooler. Then a better designed radiator, some venting, prob fix all of this

 

[mrmo]

Yep, when I looked under mine, the first thought that came to my mind was "when one of those coolers needs to be replaced one day, that job is going to SUCK."

I have not pulled a large trailer with my JT EcoDiesel yet. But I have noticed, with a camper on, that during long steep grades the engine does heat up. It has never de-fueled on me but I have seen oil temps in the 250°f range. I tried the "cool down mode" on the Tazer JL Mini and it does make a huge difference in temperatures. You can easily see 10° - 15° drop in the coolant temps very quickly and the oil temp soon follows.

I had another vehicle that would have trouble keeping the engine cool. I installed a switch to turn the high speed fan on manually. Long before it got hot enough for it to turn on by itself. It made a huge difference. I would turn on the high speed fan before the cooling system got hot and it could keep up with the rising oil temps. I am sure if you keep a sustained load on the EcoDiesel it will eventually get hot and de-fuel. But this will give you much more time by increasing cooling with the fan on earlier.

Once an engineered auxiliary oil cooler is manufactured, I will be installing one. Since the oil runs much hotter than the coolant, this is the best place to pull BTU's from a hot engine.

Try this and see what your results are. It does make a difference even at high driving speeds where you would think the "RAM" air passing through the radiator would be sufficient. It would be great to get some user input on how well this simple push of the "Right Arrow - Cruise Cancel" buttons work with a Tazer JL Mini installed. I should note that the "Transmission Temp" will jump to at least 229° or higher when you turn on the cooling mode. It will drop to normal when you turn off this feature. This is how I know the fan is on high speed when on the highway and otherwise cannot hear it.

And yes, I do have the 940w fan on my December 2020 build.

Any one ever consider the fan is the restriction, not running:hot running (manual over ride) cool

 

[ZoneArc]

Theres the spot, pull those and see whats behind them. Fittings, hoses, brackets, plate cooler w fan on a thermostat. Solves the oil cooler. Then a better designed radiator, some venting, prob fix all of this

If it's that easy we should have had a system already.

 

[cotnballs2000]

Your tire/gear ratios can be changed to lower your EGTs/Oil temps, you need higher RPMs believe it our not.

You know another way to lower your EGTs/oil temps and stop de-fueling, a DEF delete, better downpiple and free flowing exhaust. That's why the factory engineers couldn't fix the problem totally. Upgraded turbo could do a lot also with a upgraded exhaust.

 

[mrmo]

If it's that easy we should have had a system already.

So nobody has pulled those plugs to see if they are inlet/outlet, have a pressure valve spring inside, pipe thread/straight thread, boss fitting? If they are inlet/outlet, fit them up, run hose to a container with some reserve oil. Have some one do a start up and watch oil flow, with quick shut off. If good, make up pressure rated hoses, run them to a bracket you make to hold an oil cooler/fan combo, wire it to a switch. Oil temps start ro climb, switch it on. If those ports arent what it looks like, find others. You can tellme there arent other oil galley plugs on the block, turbo area etc. Mine will be delivered soon and i will be doing this. This will be my 7th diesel, you keep the oil cool, intake open to cool air, watch egts, free flow the exhaust. Putting exhaust gases back thru the engine isnt helping

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