Diesel cooling options and ideas

[av8or]

rather than using a tazer and tricking the ecm to bump the fan to high speed, couldn't you just run a straight power tap into the fan with a switch? then when you know you're going to need extra cooling (right as you start up a grade while towing or it's really hot) just pop the switch (assuming you'd need a relay for the full 940w@12v(78amps?) and have "KITT hit the turbos"

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[Mr._Bill]

rather than using a tazer and tricking the ecm to bump the fan to high speed, couldn't you just run a straight power tap into the fan with a switch? then when you know you're going to need extra cooling (right as you start up a grade while towing or it's really hot) just pop the switch (assuming you'd need a relay for the full 940w@12v(78amps?) and have "KITT hit the turbos"

Where's it's computer controlled, it may not be that easy. I would look at adding another fan in front to push air through the radiator.

 

[av8or]

Where's it's computer controlled, it may not be that easy. I would look at adding another fan in front to push air through the radiator.

but the 'computer control' is it just adjusting the amount of power(like a rheostat, by reducing the voltage or the current with resistance) the fan is getting
if you bypass that and just run a straight line from the main bus (as long as the fan runs on 12v) it should run at "high" which is really just its normal speed?

 

[Mr._Bill]

but the 'computer control' is it just adjusting the amount of power(like a rheostat, by reducing the voltage or the current with resistance) the fan is getting
if you bypass that and just run a straight line from the main bus (as long as the fan runs on 12v) it should run at "high" which is really just its normal speed?

I'm not sure how it's controlled, so it may be easy to override and it may not be. My concern is if something fails and it overheats. The dealer would blame it on the fan mod and deny warranty coverage for the repair. With a separate fan to assist, there's no modification to the main fan that can be blamed if there is a problem.

 

[AkBooman]

I just ordered these. They are on backorder.

One guy left this feedback.

I just ordered these. They are on backorder.

One guy left this feedback.


Let us know how it works when you get them installed. Wondering if you have to cut the felt cover under the hood to let these work better.

 

[am1978]

I sent them back. I didn’t even bother installing them after doing some more research on scooping versus venting.

 

[SwankyTiger]

Would opening up the fender vents to a useful size help? Since everything I see the actual opening of them are tiny. That would be one way to get more heat out.

 

[ZoneArc]

Would opening up the fender vents to a useful size help? Since everything I see the actual opening of them are tiny. That would be one way to get more heat out.

There's 20 pages of content around people testing things here. Please go back and read it before posting on topics already covered. Thanks.

 

[WXman]

I would still like to see a list of build dates between the trucks that overheat and the trucks that don't. I think that could give us some very interesting clues.

Makes no sense that some of us tow BIG trailers on 90-100 degree days with zero issues, and others claim they overheat without a trailer. There has to be something going on other than what we've hashed out for 23 pages.

 

[jeepin48]

I would still like to see a list of build dates between the trucks that overheat and the trucks that don't. I think that could give us some very interesting clues.

Makes no sense that some of us tow BIG trailers on 90-100 degree days with zero issues, and others claim they overheat without a trailer. There has to be something going on other than what we've hashed out for 23 pages.

I tried to get a poll going but it didn't get any traction.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...successful-and-de-rated-vehicle-setups.46443/

 

[Jeep-A-Kneez]

Magnetic heat sinks for the steel oil pan or an oil pan that's made of aluminum with cooling fins molded in with the ability to hold an extra quart or two. Same for the transmission too.

 

[ZoneArc]

The majority of complaints center around people towing up steep inclines with greater than 3000lbs.
We've seen no changes from engine bay cooling changes including:

1. Removing the Hood
2. Altering the hood (scoops, louvers, etc)
3. Altering inner fenders
4. Altering the grill
5. Changing out the intake

We have seen slight improvement by:

1. Manually engaging the engine fan

No current solutions exist.

The few shops I've spoken to say it may be extremely difficult to develop a robust oil cooler design.

What I'm doing to test this in a few weeks is:

I'm going to add a bypass oil filter and then loop in an oil cooler. The bypass filter I have on the way is:

https://insanediesel.com/products/jeep-wrangler-3-0l-ecodiesel-bypass-oil-filtration-kit

This is the oil cooler I plan to loop in to the system:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...EkA16a4c8ZV5WTOEBkJBAW8eo4xH_65BoCkIAQAvD_BwE

Bypass oil filters don't cycle as much oil as desired, but it should help. Insane Diesel ran tests and they're cycling ~2g a min of oil through the bypass. Since the total oil capacity of the engine is 2g, it means I'll be cycling 100% of the oil through the setup. They saw a 6 degree cooldown on oil temps by simply adding their kit and locating the bottle near the fender. My thought is that adding a HD oil cooler with an active fan should drop that even more. While there should be substantially better long-term solutions, I'm hopeful this could make a dent *big enough* to get me towing up mountain passes.

 

[HighNoon]

I pull a large fan for additional cooling.

 

[Glendawg619]

The majority of complaints center around people towing up steep inclines with greater than 3000lbs.
We've seen no changes from engine bay cooling changes including:

1. Removing the Hood
2. Altering the hood (scoops, louvers, etc)
3. Altering inner fenders
4. Altering the grill
5. Changing out the intake

We have seen slight improvement by:

1. Manually engaging the engine fan

No current solutions exist.

The few shops I've spoken to say it may be extremely difficult to develop a robust oil cooler design.

What I'm doing to test this in a few weeks is:

I'm going to add a bypass oil filter and then loop in an oil cooler. The bypass filter I have on the way is:

https://insanediesel.com/products/jeep-wrangler-3-0l-ecodiesel-bypass-oil-filtration-kit

This is the oil cooler I plan to loop in to the system:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...EkA16a4c8ZV5WTOEBkJBAW8eo4xH_65BoCkIAQAvD_BwE

Bypass oil filters don't cycle as much oil as desired, but it should help. Insane Diesel ran tests and they're cycling ~2g a min of oil through the bypass. Since the total oil capacity of the engine is 2g, it means I'll be cycling 100% of the oil through the setup. They saw a 6 degree cooldown on oil temps by simply adding their kit and locating the bottle near the fender. My thought is that adding a HD oil cooler with an active fan should drop that even more. While there should be substantially better long-term solutions, I'm hopeful this could make a dent *big enough* to get me towing up mountain passes.

Awesome, cant wait for results. Staying tuned

 

[WXman]

I've seen a few guys mention increasing oil capacity. Just fyi, that doesn't do anything at all to keep an engine or trans. cool. Greater fluid capacity means it takes slightly longer to heat up the oil, slightly longer to cool it down, but while in operation the temperature will be exactly the same. That's just how the science works.

And, taking longer to heat the fluid/oil to operating temp isn't always a good thing.

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