Diesel cooling options and ideas

[Jefe1018]

I'm going to add a bypass oil filter and then loop in an oil cooler.

After reading through all of these pages, this seems to be a very logical next step. I'm interested to see the results you see.

My thoughts are similar to @WXman. It seems that there is something here more than "the diesel over heats". Collecting build date data would likely be a good logical step as previously suggested and attempted.

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[jeepin48]

Magnetic heat sinks for the steel oil pan or an oil pan that's made of aluminum with cooling fins molded in with the ability to hold an extra quart or two. Same for the transmission too.

I don't know if that would pull enough heat away.

However adding a separate electric oil pump on the oil drain plug, then pump through a cooling radiator, and returning it through the oil fill may be a alternative build idea.

 

[WXman]

I tried to get a poll going but it didn't get any traction.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...successful-and-de-rated-vehicle-setups.46443/

Yeah, I remember that. Looks like nobody wanted to play ball.

 

[Minty JL]

Yeah, I remember that. Looks like nobody wanted to play ball.

Because its more fun and easier to complain then try and come up with a solution

 

[Jeep-A-Kneez]

This is true

I've seen a few guys mention increasing oil capacity. Just fyi, that doesn't do anything at all to keep an engine or trans. cool. Greater fluid capacity means it takes slightly longer to heat up the oil, slightly longer to cool it down, but while in operation the temperature will be exactly the same. That's just how the science works.

And, taking longer to heat the fluid/oil to operating temp isn't always a good thing.

But what if we were to increase the size of the pan, using a material better suited for dissipating heat, with heat sinks inside and out. This would increase surface area for better thermal exchange, maybe, trying to think like an air cooled engine or gearbox.

I've yet to see these heat & derating issues with my truck and I do use it to haul and tow, but it's not my intention of towing 5 or 6 thousand pounds with it either. If I'm getting in that range, I'll use the one ton truck.

Ya know, since some are experiencing this and some haven't, and those out there trying to piece together manufacturing dates, y'all might be on to something. If machining tolerances are to tight, even .0005", .0127mm for the metric folk. That's interference=heat.

 

[Gruffid]

Yeah, I remember that. Looks like nobody wanted to play ball.

I didn’t even see this survey. You might want to start with an easier survey just getting people to log they’ve overheated, what their trim (sport, overland, rubicon) is, and what their build date is.

I’m not saying the other info isnt necessary, but I tow infrequently, and it’s only derated While I was towing. I think the last time I experienced it was in April. And I didn’t record all of the data you asked for.

 

[WXman]

I just had an epiphany. Do you guys who are seeing the overheating issues still have all of the foam pieces around your engine and the engine cover installed? The 1st thing I do when I get home with an Ecodiesel is remove all of the foam and the engine cover. Those stupid pieces just hold heat.

 

[Jefe1018]

I just had an epiphany. Do you guys who are seeing the overheating issues still have all of the foam pieces around your engine and the engine cover installed? The 1st thing I do when I get home with an Ecodiesel is remove all of the foam and the engine cover. Those stupid pieces just hold heat.

But then people can tell you have a diesel, it's supposed to be a super quite luxury vehicle

 

[rharr]

I just had an epiphany. Do you guys who are seeing the overheating issues still have all of the foam pieces around your engine and the engine cover installed? The 1st thing I do when I get home with an Ecodiesel is remove all of the foam and the engine cover. Those stupid pieces just hold heat.

i opened my ruby vents and removed the plastic engine cover. And I have not had overheat issues, but i also watch everything and dial back the boost/gas pedal when i see temps climb.

i haven't removed the chunk of foam rubber on the passenger side above the egr cooler stuff as i wasn't sure if it was for sound or heat isolation/protection. Above the EGR makes me think heat.

 

[EddyArnold]

I just had an epiphany. Do you guys who are seeing the overheating issues still have all of the foam pieces around your engine and the engine cover installed? The 1st thing I do when I get home with an Ecodiesel is remove all of the foam and the engine cover. Those stupid pieces just hold heat.

So... the cover and two foam pieces, did i miss anything else?

 

[WXman]

So... the cover and two foam pieces, did i miss anything else?

I don't know that the foam and engine cover are trapping enough heat to cause problems. But throwing them away certainly can't hurt!!!

 

[rharr]

I don't know that the foam and engine cover are trapping enough heat to cause problems. But throwing them away certainly can't hurt!!!

is the foam for sound or a heat shield? CORRECTION, they are used to cover the fuel rails, how much sound does a fuel rail make?


https://www.yourmoparparts.com/v-20...ation-service-engines-and-engine-service-kits

#10 and #12 - Fuel rail cover.

 

[Wapiti Jeep]

G

The majority of complaints center around people towing up steep inclines with greater than 3000lbs.
We've seen no changes from engine bay cooling changes including:

1. Removing the Hood
2. Altering the hood (scoops, louvers, etc)
3. Altering inner fenders
4. Altering the grill
5. Changing out the intake

We have seen slight improvement by:

1. Manually engaging the engine fan

No current solutions exist.

The few shops I've spoken to say it may be extremely difficult to develop a robust oil cooler design.

What I'm doing to test this in a few weeks is:

I'm going to add a bypass oil filter and then loop in an oil cooler. The bypass filter I have on the way is:

https://insanediesel.com/products/jeep-wrangler-3-0l-ecodiesel-bypass-oil-filtration-kit

This is the oil cooler I plan to loop in to the system:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...EkA16a4c8ZV5WTOEBkJBAW8eo4xH_65BoCkIAQAvD_BwE

Bypass oil filters don't cycle as much oil as desired, but it should help. Insane Diesel ran tests and they're cycling ~2g a min of oil through the bypass. Since the total oil capacity of the engine is 2g, it means I'll be cycling 100% of the oil through the setup. They saw a 6 degree cooldown on oil temps by simply adding their kit and locating the bottle near the fender. My thought is that adding a HD oil cooler with an active fan should drop that even more. While there should be substantially better long-term solutions, I'm hopeful this could make a dent *big enough* to get me towing up mountain passes.

This for sure looks like the most viable option. I'm excited to see how this goes for you.

I did add an additional high speed fan and opened up the fake rubicon vents on the hood. I tested last week and it was better. I was able to maintain 230-232 coolant temps and 245-250 oil temps. I ran the extra fan the whole time and used the Tazer to turn on the engine fan when it started to heat up. Air temp was 87 so 5 degrees less than the last time I tested. I think allowing the heat out of the engine bay may have been the biggest help. With the new fan on I can feel heat coming out of the hood vents. I am actually going to open them up more.

 

[PackMule]

The majority of complaints center around people towing up steep inclines with greater than 3000lbs.
We've seen no changes from engine bay cooling changes including:

1. Removing the Hood
2. Altering the hood (scoops, louvers, etc)
3. Altering inner fenders
4. Altering the grill
5. Changing out the intake

We have seen slight improvement by:

1. Manually engaging the engine fan

No current solutions exist.

The few shops I've spoken to say it may be extremely difficult to develop a robust oil cooler design.

What I'm doing to test this in a few weeks is:

I'm going to add a bypass oil filter and then loop in an oil cooler. The bypass filter I have on the way is:

https://insanediesel.com/products/jeep-wrangler-3-0l-ecodiesel-bypass-oil-filtration-kit

This is the oil cooler I plan to loop in to the system:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...EkA16a4c8ZV5WTOEBkJBAW8eo4xH_65BoCkIAQAvD_BwE

Bypass oil filters don't cycle as much oil as desired, but it should help. Insane Diesel ran tests and they're cycling ~2g a min of oil through the bypass. Since the total oil capacity of the engine is 2g, it means I'll be cycling 100% of the oil through the setup. They saw a 6 degree cooldown on oil temps by simply adding their kit and locating the bottle near the fender. My thought is that adding a HD oil cooler with an active fan should drop that even more. While there should be substantially better long-term solutions, I'm hopeful this could make a dent *big enough* to get me towing up mountain passes.

@ZoneArc, Just checking in to see if you are still giving this approach a try? Interested in seeing what your results are.

 

[ZoneArc]

I'm struggling. I can't find a spot for an oil cooler right now. I'm contemplating if I can mount it to the hood.

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