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Diesel cooling options and ideas

caryt

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Behind the bumper..? What truck has the Intercooler behind the bumper?
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Brake

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Behind the bumper..? What truck has the Intercooler behind the bumper?
Other than the Gladiator, what recent production truck uses a stacked cooling design?
Most modern trucks have moved to air-to-water intercooling. Ones that still or recently used air-to-air, like the 3rd gen Ram Ecodiesel, F150 EcoBoost, Ranger, Bronco, etc. mount the intercooler down low and out of the path of the radiator for good reason.
 

biodiesel

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I own a 2015 Ram EcoDiesel with the stacked cooling design, which is the restriction in the cooling system. As mentioned above, Ram dropped the intercooler on the 3rd gen Ram EcoDiesel and there are no longer cooling issues. Air has a hard time going through the stack. I still do a lot of towing with the 2015 EcoDiesel. It's manageable if you slow down, but I know that not everyone wants to slow down.
 

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Just got back from a 375 mile round trip towing in the mountains and I can most definitely say the Bullet Proof aux radiator made a difference overall!

The max temps I saw on this trip were pretty typical......Coolant:244° and Oil:273° with ambient at 82°. I was able to maintain at least 40mph on even the knarliest hills. There were many signed 9% grades, but I know there was one on a forest back road that was much steeper thankfully with a 45mph speed limit.

The biggest improvement was the shortened recovery time! The coolant temp dropped immediately after cresting the hill and throttle closed with the oil temp dropping soon to follow.
 
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arosen1997

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Here is my solution. It uses a Derale cooler mounted towards the rear under the bed. I am going to tap into the coolant just like BPD does, the return from the oil heat exchanger. I made a scoop for it that is easily removable. At a minimum I plan to run the scoop on long trips and definitely when towing. I am still waiting on my hose to show up so I can plumb it all in. I took the best pictures that I could. It's very difficult to do without the truck being on a lift.

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Just an idea, instead of tapping the coolant up front and pushing it all the way to the rear and all the way back, maybe just add a fluid to fluid heat exchanger up front and run the rear system as it's own separate loop with a pump and reservoir?
Then if your rear system gets damaged by road debris or anything like that it won't torch your whole cooling system.
 

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Madtom

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It’s been awhile. I need to update my ID bypass oil filter plus oil cooler experience posted earlier in this thread.
The short Version….the ID part of the system has been removed and replaced with a universal Amsoil oil bypass system.
The ID bypass oil filter housing would leak at the first freeze of winter. My only complaint.
The ID system is up for sale in the marketplace with full disclosure.

The Amsoil bypass oil filter system has been installed for 6 weeks plus and several thousand miles. This is not an engine specific kit. It took several install/uninstall to get the proper output size hole in the new bypass housing. This is needed to maintain factory oil pressure as delivered from the factory. The hole size is 1/16.
During this upgrade I relocated the oil cooler from the spare tire area , forward over the driveshaft, at the front of truck bed. Also, installing the cooler at an angle. I plumbed the cooler so that it fills completely before pushing oil back to the engine. This cooler change made a huge difference in oil temperatures. 20 plus degrees with fan on. Without fan on I can cruise up grades at 75 mph with 230 degree oil temps. Before oil cooler I would hit 248* below 70 mph. Same grades. At 75mph I’m at 2100 RPM.
NCJL,

Are you still using the tapped fitting on the Oil filter assy? When you refer to 1/16 output hole on the AMSOIL Bypass is that to restrict flow? I know you had a 1/8th restriction coming out of the oil filter assembly tap. Same filter change schedule as the ID setup? Is the Oil staying just as clear? any more oil analysis completed? I still haven't got around to building/ installing mine..... I'm only at 14k miles now and plan to add to the cooling capacity before I start towing. Maybe next summer.... too many projects and not enough time lol
 

NCJL

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NCJL,

Are you still using the tapped fitting on the Oil filter assy? When you refer to 1/16 output hole on the AMSOIL Bypass is that to restrict flow? I know you had a 1/8th restriction coming out of the oil filter assembly tap. Same filter change schedule as the ID setup? Is the Oil staying just as clear? any more oil analysis completed? I still haven't got around to building/ installing mine..... I'm only at 14k miles now and plan to add to the cooling capacity before I start towing. Maybe next summer.... too many projects and not enough time lol
Yes, still have the same setup. I would just run the Amsoil bypass filter housing as is without changing the hole size. The hole size does restrict flow. This last oil change I used the factory spec. Pennzoil. If oil temps are above *240 I loose about 3psi on the oil pressure gauge. This didn’t happen when using Redline factory spec oil.
Oil has never been “clear” with any setup.
 

Madtom

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Yes, still have the same setup. I would just run the Amsoil bypass filter housing as is without changing the hole size. The hole size does restrict flow. This last oil change I used the factory spec. Pennzoil. If oil temps are above *240 I loose about 3psi on the oil pressure gauge. This didn’t happen when using Redline factory spec oil.
Oil has never been “clear” with any setup.
What is your filter/oil change interval now with this setup. Keeping things cool is part of the goal. I am fine with changing earlier than needed as all of this is to ensure the longevity of the engine. I plan on having this for a while and ensuring fluids are replaced before there is a problem helps me to achieve that goal.
 

NCJL

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What is your filter/oil change interval now with this setup. Keeping things cool is part of the goal. I am fine with changing earlier than needed as all of this is to ensure the longevity of the engine. I plan on having this for a while and ensuring fluids are replaced before there is a problem helps me to achieve that goal.
5 to 7k when using Redline. Less when using Penzoil.
 

Tortuga41

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When I installed the Bullet Proof Diesel Aux cooler, I still had the stock plastic bumper. I have been wanting to add a winch, but needed a new bumper for installation. However many new bumpers either have the winch mounted inside the bumper, or have braces to support a winch; both of these setups interfere with the location of the BPD Aux cooler.

My solution is the aluminum version of Rock Hard 4x4 bumper. Winch is mounted on top, no braces in the way of the BPD Aux cooler. Only issue was the design of the bumper plus the addition of the winch prevented air flow to the BPD Aux cooler and obstructed some of the normal air flow via the grill; coolant/oil temps were high again and perhaps worse than stock with no aux cooler. My solution was drilling five 2” holes in the front of the bumper to allow air flow to the BPD Aux cooler and the bottom of the radiator stack that sticks out below the grill. Result is coolant/oil temps back to BPD Aux cooler with stock plastic bumper. I have attached photos for reference (for those interested) of what the BPD Aux cooler looks like when installed with no bumper, the Aluminum Rock Hard 4x4 bumper test fit, and finally the full bumper setup with holes drilled out.

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Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_5407
 

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steelponycowboy

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All well and good and creative on your part BUT you've not only compromised the strength of the bumper but also voided any warranty on it at the same time. I appreciate Bulletproof Diesel coming up with the fix which I brought to their attention as a problem early in 2021 when they went over my JT taking pics and measurements then buying their own diesel to experiment on. I was not able to take advantage of their findings and had to pass being the first JT with their.cooler as I have an aftermarket bumper with a 12K winch.. I was not willing to mount a winch above to restrict the already deficient cooling system so I passed. Since then I realized what Jeep already knew and why they stopped selling it, the 3.0 is a total.POS. with now looks like 130 days total in the shop with now over $50k in warranty repairs ALL diesel related. I have written documentation from 2 dealers stating the issues that Jeep knows about but has kept from the public and will soon be seeing them under the Federal Lemon Law. Warning once you have a warranty claim on a part, they will do their best to deny future claims for BS reasons. I think a Class Action suit is in order for those of us that have had serious issues with our 3.0s, something my attorney suggested. End of story......
 

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Five 2" holes will have almost no impact on the integrity of a bumper made of 3/16" steel, especially that between the press-brake bend where the lower section is adding strength and the winch plate above the holes. The frame will already be bending by the time enough force is put on that to deform it.
 

steelponycowboy

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Excuse me thought you said it was aluminum. However of it helps cooling then why didn't rock-hard add them from the factory. Next time I see James the owner I'll ask him. It's my understanding and maybe you are a structural engineer, I'm not that holes do affect integrity when they are just holes.....
 

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My bad, it is aluminum, but depending on the alloy that's even better. Some alloys are more ductile than steel, and with the right alloy and material thickness it will be just as strong. The big thing is the triangulation and reinforcement behind that plate.
 

biodiesel

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Since then I realized what Jeep already knew and why they stopped selling it, the 3.0 is a total.POS.
The EcoDiesel isn't a total POS, nor did Jeep/Ram stop selling the EcoDiesel for that reason. The EcoDiesel was discontinued because of the HPFP recall. They could no longer sell the engine with the recalled pump, and the new replacement pump could not be produced in the numbers to take care of the recall and meet new production vehicles.

The Gen 3 engine is a very good engine. We are now seeing quite a few engines in the 200,000-mile range in the Rams. They have all needed a new DPF, otherwise, they have been mostly problem free.
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