AEV 2" spacer lift for Mojave Gladiator

[Lunentucker]

Have any pics of your ride? Running 35 KO’s also and wondering what it will look like after the lift. Hopefully adding my front bumper and winch this coming week while I’m off. Then the lift comes next. Probably have a shop do it for me due to work schedule and lack of time.

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[Toyfrog]

Thanks, looks good. Nice taste in color

 

[Viper501]

Great minds ….

 

[MOJAVEC22]

@Viper501, did the middle setting give the 6 deg caster? I'm shooting for 6 deg and can't tell from the thread whether that's the middle or last setting.

sorry for the late reply but yes, 3rd setting closer to 6 degrees, middle setting closer to 5. Mine drives great on the 3rd setting. Steering wheel corrects itself better imo.

 

[NoDoorsNoProblem]

AEV Mojave lift doing work in Moab.

 

[arskemp]

Anyone have a list or tips on some helpful tools for install? I'm planning on doing it in my driveway sometime in the coming weeks along with the geometry brackets. What I have right now that will probably be applicable for the install:

- Bottle jack(s) + 4 jack stands to get it in the air
- assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 Sockets and socket wrenches
- 3/8 and 1/2 joint socket adapters
- a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs
- breaker bar
- assortment of basic combination wrenches

I also plan on borrowing a spring compressor from one of the auto parts stores nearby. Anything else that is helpful to have? Specially shaped wrenches, shorty wrenches, etc?

 

[MJRSC]

Anyone have a list or tips on some helpful tools for install? I'm planning on doing it in my driveway sometime in the coming weeks along with the geometry brackets. What I have right now that will probably be applicable for the install:

- Bottle jack(s) + 4 jack stands to get it in the air
- assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 Sockets and socket wrenches
- 3/8 and 1/2 joint socket adapters
- a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs
- breaker bar
- assortment of basic combination wrenches

I also plan on borrowing a spring compressor from one of the auto parts stores nearby. Anything else that is helpful to have? Specially shaped wrenches, shorty wrenches, etc?

I don't want to discourage you, but if you're buying this list of stuff, or most of it, you may be getting close to the cost of a professional install.

 

[arskemp]

I don't want to discourage you, but if you're buying this list of stuff, or most of it, you may be getting close to the cost of a professional install.

Other than the spring compressor, I already have the above tools. I've also done a suspension install before but that was on a completely different vehicle (mazda miata). Even if I didn't have all the above tools, I'd like to familiarize myself with the suspension anyways in case I have to make a field repair if I break something in the middle of nowhere.

I'm fine buying a specialty wrench or tool though if it makes this significantly easier. Mainly, I just don't want to have to run to the auto parts store mid install for a single tool like I've done in the past working on other vehicles.

 

[MJRSC]

Other than the spring compressor, I already have the above tools. I've also done a suspension install before but that was on a completely different vehicle (mazda miata). Even if I didn't have all the above tools, I'd like to familiarize myself with the suspension anyways in case I have to make a field repair if I break something in the middle of nowhere.

I'm fine buying a specialty wrench or tool though if it makes this significantly easier. Mainly, I just don't want to have to run to the auto parts store mid install for a single tool like I've done in the past working on other vehicles.

Right on - yea that's the absolute worst being one thing short. Good luck and have fun!

 

[b-roc]

Some type of cheater bar for your torque wrench

 

[Nance146]

Anyone have a list or tips on some helpful tools for install? I'm planning on doing it in my driveway sometime in the coming weeks along with the geometry brackets. What I have right now that will probably be applicable for the install:

- Bottle jack(s) + 4 jack stands to get it in the air
- assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 Sockets and socket wrenches
- 3/8 and 1/2 joint socket adapters
- a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs
- breaker bar
- assortment of basic combination wrenches

I also plan on borrowing a spring compressor from one of the auto parts stores nearby. Anything else that is helpful to have? Specially shaped wrenches, shorty wrenches, etc?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FB12R2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these wrenches to get the bump stop on the front passenger side on. Access is limited in this area. I was able to do it after the truck was back on the ground if you want to hold off until later to see if you need them but it would have definitely been easier to do with the wheels off and springs out.

I used some black spray paint on the exposed metal after drilling the holes to try and limit the rust. Oh yeah, check the drill bit size too… I didn’t have whatever size the instructions were asking for and used a larger size. Worked fine but something to keep in mind.

I didn’t use a spring compressor and was able to squeeze the springs in there but I could see where it could be helpful. Once the truck is on jack stands, you should be able to drop the axles all the way to the floor and the springs will fall right out (mostly). I had to remove the caliper on the rear right side because the brake lines were tight. It does take some finagling to get the spacer to stay on top of the spring and in the correct orientation while jacking the axles back up.

Be sure you loosen up the upper and lower control arms at the axle and frame sides all the way around along with the track bars. You’ll want to re-torque these after the Jeep is fully back on the ground. Probably want to shake the Jeep first to make sure the bushings aren’t bound. Then just straighten the steering wheel with the collar on the drag link after your done.

Also… Don’t make a tee time at 8am the next morning in case you run out of time or you‘ll be up all night working to finish. Ask me how I know.

 

[jeepers29]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FB12R2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these wrenches to get the bump stop on the front passenger side on. Access is limited in this area. I was able to do it after the truck was back on the ground if you want to hold off until later to see if you need them but it would have definitely been easier to do with the wheels off and springs out.

I used some black spray paint on the exposed metal after drilling the holes to try and limit the rust. Oh yeah, check the drill bit size too… I didn’t have whatever size the instructions were asking for and used a larger size. Worked fine but something to keep in mind.

I didn’t use a spring compressor and was able to squeeze the springs in there but I could see where it could be helpful. Once the truck is on jack stands, you should be able to drop the axles all the way to the floor and the springs will fall right out (mostly). I had to remove the caliper on the rear right side because the brake lines were tight. It does take some finagling to get the spacer to stay on top of the spring and in the correct orientation while jacking the axles back up.

Be sure you loosen up the upper and lower control arms at the axle and frame sides all the way around along with the track bars. You’ll want to re-torque these after the Jeep is fully back on the ground. Probably want to shake the Jeep first to make sure the bushings aren’t bound. Then just straighten the steering wheel with the collar on the drag link after your done.

Also… Don’t make a tee time at 8am the next morning in case you run out of time or you‘ll be up all night working to finish. Ask me how I know.

Reminds me of the time me and two friends were installing a lift on a friends jeep. At 3 in the morning, one of the guys was under the jeep snoring. LOL We still laugh about that night.

 

[draxus]

So I see people are running 37's with the AEV lift ... and KO2s are notoriously "small for their size" ... has anyone tried cramming a 39 KO2 on a mojave with just the AEV?

 

[unixxx]

Anyone have a list or tips on some helpful tools for install? I'm planning on doing it in my driveway sometime in the coming weeks along with the geometry brackets. What I have right now that will probably be applicable for the install:

- Bottle jack(s) + 4 jack stands to get it in the air
- assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 Sockets and socket wrenches
- 3/8 and 1/2 joint socket adapters
- a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs
- breaker bar
- assortment of basic combination wrenches

I also plan on borrowing a spring compressor from one of the auto parts stores nearby. Anything else that is helpful to have? Specially shaped wrenches, shorty wrenches, etc?

Just don't believe the instructions about only "common hand tools" required. This must be some sort of AEV meme

An impact wrench with swivel adapters or at least a long breaker bar is helpful for loosening the control arm bolts. Some are nearly 200 ft-lb. Unfortunately there's not much room to fit a breaker bar or 250 ft-lb torque wrench under the vehicle or in the wheel wells.

The torque specs in the AEV manual aren't the same as OEM. AEV uses a torque spec, OEM uses a torque plus angle spec. Some fasteners should be torqued from the bolt side, others from the nut side. You can get the OEM torque specs from Alldata. The front upper control arm rear bolt torque spec is incorrect in the Stellantis service manual. That one cost me bolt

After torquing all the control arms, you won't want to do it again, so install any springs, spring shims, spacers, coil correction kits, spring retainers, and front bump stops at the same time

This is also a good time to install the geometry correction brackets for the same reason. The middle setting is supposed to be around the stock caster, while the last setting is supposed to be the larger 6 deg caster, which could make the steering less sensitive with larger tires.

Don't torque any suspension bolts until the Jeep is level. Otherwise you can get binding and suspension noise.

Like Nance146 mentioned, I pulled the rear calipers to drop the axle far enough to fit the springs back in.

Be careful in the front, the clamp on the front driveshaft boot will bind with the transfer case housing if you don't rotate the driveshaft to the correct position before dropping the axle.

Small jack stands to support axles, large jack stands to support frame

13/32" drill bit to drill out rear bump stop holes

I sprayed on Rustoleum auto body primer then painted on Rustoleum enamel after drilling out the holes

Metric allen key to remove stock sway bar links, metric allen key to install front and rear bump stops

Large size metric wrenches and sockets from control arm bolts and nuts

Hammer and piece of wood to drive on AEV front shock extenders which are slightly too narrow for OEM axle brackets

 

[arskemp]

Just don't believe the instructions about only "common hand tools" required. This must be some sort of AEV meme

An impact wrench with swivel adapters or at least a long breaker bar is helpful for loosening the control arm bolts. Some are nearly 200 ft-lb. Unfortunately there's not much room to fit a breaker bar or 250 ft-lb torque wrench under the vehicle or in the wheel wells.

The torque specs in the AEV manual aren't the same as OEM. AEV uses a torque spec, OEM uses a torque plus angle spec. Some fasteners should be torqued from the bolt side, others from the nut side. You can get the OEM torque specs from Alldata. The front upper control arm rear bolt torque spec is incorrect in the Stellantis service manual. That one cost me bolt

After torquing all the control arms, you won't want to do it again, so install any springs, spring shims, spacers, coil correction kits, spring retainers, and front bump stops at the same time

This is also a good time to install the geometry correction brackets for the same reason. The middle setting is supposed to be around the stock caster, while the last setting is supposed to be the larger 6 deg caster, which could make the steering less sensitive with larger tires.

Don't torque any suspension bolts until the Jeep is level. Otherwise you can get binding and suspension noise.

Like Nance146 mentioned, I pulled the rear calipers to drop the axle far enough to fit the springs back in.

Be careful in the front, the clamp on the front driveshaft boot will bind with the transfer case housing if you don't rotate the driveshaft to the correct position before dropping the axle.

Small jack stands to support axles, large jack stands to support frame

13/32" drill bit to drill out rear bump stop holes

I sprayed on Rustoleum auto body primer then painted on Rustoleum enamel after drilling out the holes

Metric allen key to remove stock sway bar links, metric allen key to install front and rear bump stops

Large size metric wrenches and sockets from control arm bolts and nuts

Hammer and piece of wood to drive on AEV front shock extenders which are slightly too narrow for OEM axle brackets

Great, thanks for the additional tips. Especially the one about referencing Alldata.

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