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Diesel cooling options and ideas

biodiesel

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MPMB

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220 isnt too hot with a trans but keeping it below that leaves more headroom to prevent spikes. I see the hellcat guys trying to keep them around 160-180.

Oddly enough after all of my cooling modifications my jeep sees its highest coolant temp getting off the freeway and immediately parking/idling to get fuel etc because the fan never turns on. It never kicks on anymore so the coolant gets up to 210-220 which was normal temp before modifications. With any airflow even AC running it stays below 200. The thermostat is clearly doing all of the work here.
The higher temps happen because you're going slower and less air is moving through the radiator. It happens all the time in racing. Caution comes out and engines start to overheat, end up turning on the fan.

And as most of you know, all the temp management is for is to stop the engine from derating. Oil temps can go above 230*. Not for extended periods of time, but nothing's going to go "kaboom." Dyno tests for max HP have been done with oil temps at 270-280*.

The JT radiator is ridiculously thin. Considering that off-roaders are going slower, idling a lot, you'd think they'd over-engineer the cooling system. They cheaped out with plastic body parts and the interior (not to mention the valvetrain supplier), so spend a little more for a bigger rad.

But happy to see people are being smart and solving the problem, rather than the symptom.
 

biodiesel

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Thank you for the link. Question:

what filter is used with thsi adaptor?
Most everyone I know is running Amsoil filters. With this setup, the oil flows through both filters and doesn't draw 10% like the Diesel Insane Kit. The Amsoil filter also maintains a bypass relief valve in the filter element which is eliminated with the cap that comes with the Insane Diesel Kit.
 

NCJL

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I read about this, earlier in this thread, possibly the JL Forum. Never thought much it because the overflow bottle has shown Max since new.
I recently replaced my Alternator. The install required me to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, draining a little over half a gallon of coolant.
Once install was complete, I filled up the coolant to Max on the overflow bottle, about the same amount that drained out. I then compressed/pumped the upper and lower hoses several times, draining the overflow bottle. Filled to max again. Repeat process. Overall I got about 1.3 quarts more coolant in than I got out.
Now the damn thing runs 10 plus degrees cooler!
Maybe this was the issue since new.
Update:
I’ve put about 1,000 miles on since discovering this. Many heat/cool cycles. Burped the cooling system a few more times. Overall I got about 2 more quarts in then a got out.
Im seeing temps 20 degrees lower doing the exact same drive, same weather conditions.

I’m sure low coolant with Max coolant level showing on the overflow bottle has been the problem since new.
 

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caryt

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I have attached the Filter Adapter instructions.

Thanks for the info.
Do you have a write up on your install setup with remote filter/cooler pictures. Trying to see where all could be mounted.

Any info on oil pressure drop?

Thanks
 

biodiesel

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Do you have a write up on your install setup with remote filter/cooler pictures. Trying to see where all could be mounted.
I personally don't use remote and/or bypass filters. I'm averaging 3,000 miles per year on the Jeep Gladiator, 8,000 miles per year on the 2015 Ram 1500, and 9,000 miles per year on the 2020 Ram 1500. I simply don't log enough miles or desire the added oil cooling to install a system.

Any info on oil pressure drop?
This system doesn't have any pressure drop. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump. It moves a fixed volume of oil. The Hass setup was designed to push 100% of the oil through both filters and return it back to the oil galley which results with no pressure loss. Other designs, such as the Insane Diesel bypass, dump the bypass oil into the valve cover or oil pan which results in a slight pressure drop. However, a marginal pressure loss isn't an issue. The EcoDiesel needs at least 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM to be safe and the factory system will generate 20 PSI at idle (700 RPM). Obviously, even a 10% pressure loss isn't a concern.

This is a great design, especially for the Jeep, since this allows all of the oil to flow through the oil cooler and back to the oil galley. The Insane Kit only pulls 10% at a time, which means that not much oil is going through the oil cooler.
 

caryt

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Thanks, I'm just looking at Hass setup, just trying to figure out where filters and a cooler could be mounted.
 

rubicon4wheeler

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Thanks, I'm just looking at Hass setup, just trying to figure out where filters and a cooler could be mounted.
...and that's where the challenge is. There's just no good place to put them on the Jeep, with underhood space being inadequate and trail damage likely for underbody mounting locations.
 

biodiesel

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Thanks, I'm just looking at Hass setup, just trying to figure out where filters and a cooler could be mounted.
Mat would be willing to work with someone near him (Campbelltown, PA). The Jeep folks would need to figure out the proper sized oil cooler. He likes the filter holders and oil coolers from Improved Racing.
 

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caryt

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10-4, I'm in NV so I'll wait and hopefully someone will hook one of these up with a cooler.
Yes I've used Improved Racing products on 2 builds great stuff.
 
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10-4, I'm in NV so I'll wait and hopefully someone will hook one of these up with a cooler.
Yes I've used Improved Racing products on 2 builds great stuff.
Check this install out (not mine):
 
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Check this install out (not mine):
Evidently it will not show up because it is a private FB group. If you are interested in seeing the install on a Wrangler and are already a member of the “EcoDiesel Page for the Differently Abled and Intellectually Challenged” FB group, look up “Lorin Berindei • Jan 24” and you’ll see it. If not, join the group. 😉
 

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Update:
I’ve put about 1,000 miles on since discovering this. Many heat/cool cycles. Burped the cooling system a few more times. Overall I got about 2 more quarts in then a got out.
Im seeing temps 20 degrees lower doing the exact same drive, same weather conditions.

I’m sure low coolant with Max coolant level showing on the overflow bottle has been the problem since new.
I know this is a diesel thread, but my 2021 gasser had the same issue when I got it with 27k on it. Kept running hotter than I thought it should, checked the coolant reservoir and it was low. Topped it off and a week later it was still low. Filled the radiator one morning, then the reservoir, ran it through 2 heat cycles and BAM, temps stayed 20* lower.
 

NCJL

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Catching up on the HPD adapter. Looks like a great system for someone who is racing, not a daily driver. I love mods, that is just too much for me.
Expanding a 100% of the engine oil system outside of the engine? Nope. My 10% is already more than I ever wanted.
Also, the Factory oil filter housing already has in/out ports tapped into it, on the bottom. These could be used for 100% external oil accessories, while still utilizing the factory oil filter. One less item to find a location for.
I tapped into one of these ports. Restricted the flow to about 10% using a combination of 1/4 and 1/8 fittings with a restricted flow Amsoil bypass oil filter assembly. I have about 24” of external engine oil system hose, that has the same PSI as engine. After the bypass oil filter, no oil PSI in the system.
The reasoning for returning to the oil pan was twofold. No oil pressure after oil bypass filter/thru the oil cooler, less chance of leaks.
The oil temp after going thru the cooler was substantially cooler. With fan on, about 50% cooler. Dumping this much cooler oil back into to the oil system, in the middle or on top of the engine, just didn’t make sense to me. Cooling the oil at the source (pan) made more sense.
Side note. I have recently added oil temperature sensors in the oil and transmission pans through the IDash. Transmission averages about 10 degrees cooler than factory gauge. PPE pan.
The oil pan temperature varies greatly from factory gauge. Engine RPM has some effect up to about 15 degrees difference. The more RPM the more oil goes thru cooler. With oil cooler fan on, I can see temp difference up to 30 degrees. Just idling along, eventually the pan and factory gauges will agree.
Lots of BTU’s in the ED. It can heat up a lot.

Be sure to burp the coolant system several times before investing in anything else to help engine temperatures. Haha
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