Diesel cooling options and ideas

[Rusty PW]

@rubicon4wheeler followed your lead and did the hood vents after work tonight. Very easy other than breaking a few clips. I already ordered a few before starting as I assumed my ham fisted approach would have that result. Had some gold tape left over from another project to keep the edges from fraying. As you said easy and free and should create a nice negative pressure flow.

I just did this. So far, on the highway. I haven't seen too much difference, couple of degrees. At a stand still, i can feel the heat coming out. Slow moving, I'll find out when i go 4wheeling.

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[@californiajeeping]

I have yet another idea!

What about adding a Killer chiller to grab the coolant lines for the factory oil cooler?

The only issue I see with this is it would kill your warranty on your HVAC system AND if the AC was off then you would only have the factory cooling capacity. If the AC was on then you would have additional cooling from the AC system chilling the coolant running through the cooler....

Ideas ideas.

Someone needs to engineer and make a kit this is getting too nerve racking.

 

[jeepin48]

I have yet another idea!

What about adding a Killer chiller to grab the coolant lines for the factory oil cooler?

The only issue I see with this is it would kill your warranty on your HVAC system AND if the AC was off then you would only have the factory cooling capacity. If the AC was on then you would have additional cooling from the AC system chilling the coolant running through the cooler....

Ideas ideas.

Someone needs to engineer and make a kit this is getting too nerve racking.

I am not sure if that would be a solution.

Heat is a struggle for the system as a total and the existing radiators(coolant, AC, Transmission, turbo intercooler). If you use the AC to cool the oil, the AC will still be putting that heat into the radiators and the net effect will not be an improvement.

Bottom line is we need more radiator (regardless of which one). Adding more radiator up front(thicker) may not help as the motor is so close to the radiator so the air flow through the radiator is limited. Radiator located in another location would be ideal.

 

[@californiajeeping]

I am not sure if that would be a solution.

Heat is a struggle for the system as a total and the existing radiators(coolant, AC, Transmission, turbo intercooler). If you use the AC to cool the oil, the AC will still be putting that heat into the radiators and the net effect will not be an improvement.

Bottom line is we need more radiator (regardless of which one). Adding more radiator up front(thicker) may not help as the motor is so close to the radiator so the air flow through the radiator is limited. Radiator located in another location would be ideal.

It would work since most of the time the AC is already running and exchanging heat. What the heat transfer would be a reduced temp reduction in the AC. So the interior AC temp will go up. So instead of 50 degrees it will go up to 60 when it gets hot and the system is running? The radiator has enough capacity to keep up its the oil that cant reduce temps.

 

[OrangeCJ]

I just did this. So far, on the highway. I haven't seen too much difference, couple of degrees. At a stand still, i can feel the heat coming out. Slow moving, I'll find out when i go 4wheeling.

You won't have any problems wheeling. I was doing Moab in June last year in 95-100 degrees and it never even got warm. Speed is what seems to generate the heat. 70+MPH on the freeway keeps my oil temp at 212-218... slight hill brings me above 220... Long climb runs up to about 238 and then I give it the the "two thumbs salute" (Thanks Tazer!) to keep it below 243.

Again, this Is not towing. I can rattle this info and these numbers off, because nearly all of my 15K miles have been on the freeway, Moab, Sequoia, Zion, Vegas and Seattle a few times in the past year.

 

[@californiajeeping]

You won't have any problems wheeling. I was doing Moab in June last year in 95-100 degrees and it never even got warm. Speed is what seems to generate the heat. 70+MPH on the freeway keeps my oil temp at 212-218... slight hill brings me above 220... Long climb runs up to about 238 and then I give it the the "two thumbs salute" (Thanks Tazer!) to keep it below 243.

Again, this Is not towing. I can rattle this info and these numbers off, because nearly all of my 15K miles have been on the freeway, Moab, Sequoia, Zion, Vegas and Seattle a few times in the past year.

Oil temps are directly correlated to boost. On the highway you have constant boost so the intercooler gets hot and that is in front of the radiator that cools the oil through that little heat exchanger and your turbo is probably red hot which is baking the oil as fast as it drains....

when your sitting on the trail you rarely see boost.

 

[ZoneArc]

Coolant temp isn't an issue here. Oil temp is. Oil temps are higher on JT because the EcoDiesel oil cooler was removed when the engine was allocated to the Gladiator platform AND the pan is smaller. We have 3 qts less capacity! It was there with the RAM, the Maserati, the Grand Cherokee, etc. Also, the other engine bays were larger which also led to other options such as larger radiators, more vacuum, etc.
Either way, you need more OIL cooling to solve this problem. People keep skipping the other 37 pages, but people have already tried everything .. hoods, scoops, fenders, etc. It's all a joke.
What you need is an ACTIVE cooler connected directly to the engine and not the bypass oil filter. The bypass filter only cycles 3g per minute. You need to increase oil capacity by at least 2x and then INCREASE the volume of fluid cycled through your cooler. Then, your cooler needs to be able to drop oil temperatures by at least 50 degrees.
Today, we don't have such a solution.
I've seen the two bolts everyone posts on the bottom of the engine, but so far,I haven't seen anyone tie to those to start flowing oil through a cooler. If someone did it, great .. share the info.

 

[PJZ]

https://www.newautoparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-oil-filter-housing-68566093aa

Here is the link to the housing. Eventually one of us will get around to experimenting with the two mystery outlets in the bottom.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Coolant temp isn't an issue here. Oil temp is. Oil temps are higher on JT because the EcoDiesel oil cooler was removed when the engine was allocated to the Gladiator platform AND the pan is smaller. We have 3 qts less capacity! It was there with the RAM, the Maserati, the Grand Cherokee, etc. Also, the other engine bays were larger which also led to other options such as larger radiators, more vacuum, etc.
Either way, you need more OIL cooling to solve this problem. People keep skipping the other 37 pages, but people have already tried everything .. hoods, scoops, fenders, etc. It's all a joke.
What you need is an ACTIVE cooler connected directly to the engine and not the bypass oil filter. The bypass filter only cycles 3g per minute. You need to increase oil capacity by at least 2x and then INCREASE the volume of fluid cycled through your cooler. Then, your cooler needs to be able to drop oil temperatures by at least 50 degrees.
Today, we don't have such a solution.
I've seen the two bolts everyone posts on the bottom of the engine, but so far,I haven't seen anyone tie to those to start flowing oil through a cooler. If someone did it, great .. share the info.

With that that increased oil capacity, cooling, and good filtration, it would likely solve all heat issues and one could probably go 25K+ miles between oil changes.....But that would most definitely void warranty! Back to square one..........File the complaint with NHTSA and hope for a factory approved solution.

 

[ZoneArc]

I'm concerned that it'll cycle oil at the same rate as the filter, and potentially bypass the filter based on placement. I believe a larger pan coupled with an oil pump to an active cooler under the bed is the solution. Why? Because an oil pump would flow faster and placing the cooler at the bed would allow for a larger cooler, long oil lines, and subsequently increase oil capacity.
I question if just tapping the oil pan would work as well. Do we even need a larger pan?
Let's say you put the active cooler under the bed. It holds 1QT of oil. 20' of 1/2" ID hose holds 4.3QTs, so thats 5.3QTS of additional oil.
I suspect you would start to see serious reduction of temps there.

 

[PJZ]

I am liking the adapter that Baxter is making for the 3.6. If we could add a high quality inline filter, the cooler, and thermostat it would be a clean/safe set up. Assuming all that would work. Going to see what they put out for the 3.o. Had also reached out to PPE to see if they were going to make an oil pan for the 3.o but nothing at this time. Probably not necessary as you noted with all the extra oil with the added lines, cooler and filter.

 

[@californiajeeping]

I really think a quick and easy solution to our issues would be to simply setup a separate cooling system for the factory heat exchanger.....You could just run two hoses and a pump and be good to go. Maybe add a resevoir or AC based chiller system. Heck you could even ICE the resevoir if you were towing just chunk some dry ice in there for your 3 hour trip

Im a genius. Also if you blow a line your have water leaking out and high oil temps but you wont lose oil pressure. The engine will derate and youll save the engine. Kinda seems like a safe option.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I really think a quick and easy solution to our issues would be to simply setup a separate cooling system for the factory heat exchanger.....You could just run two hoses and a pump and be good to go. Maybe add a resevoir or AC based chiller system. Heck you could even ICE the resevoir if you were towing just chunk some dry ice in there for your 3 hour trip

Im a genius. Also if you blow a line your have water leaking out and high oil temps but you wont lose oil pressure. The engine will derate and youll save the engine. Kinda seems like a safe option.

Or what about a smaller coolant radiator aft of the cooler to shed some heat before returning it to the cooling system? easier cheaper low pressure coolant lines to run?

 

[@californiajeeping]

Or what about a smaller coolant radiator aft of the cooler to shed some heat before returning it to the cooling system? easier cheaper low pressure coolant lines to run?

I think the engine just runs so hot or has so many BTU's you will never get below the ECT to really do anything. But if you could get the coolant in the heat exchanger down to 70 degree ambient air or 100....thats alot more cooling than if the coolant going in was 210-230.....

Unfortunately its all unknown because we dont know how many BTU's the heat exchanger is capable of?

 

[CrazyCooter]

I think the engine just runs so hot or has so many BTU's you will never get below the ECT to really do anything. But if you could get the coolant in the heat exchanger down to 70 degree ambient air or 100....thats alot more cooling than if the coolant going in was 210-230.....

Unfortunately its all unknown because we dont know how many BTU's the heat exchanger is capable of?

What if something like this was installed either before or after the oil cooler? https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/hi-flow-fluid-coolers/65861-detail By calculations I find on the net, the 125,000BTU rating of this cooler is about 50hp and that doesn't include the BTU's that go out the tailpipe. I would think we could run all day long at 200hp even at 110° ambient, so stands to reason shedding 50hp of heat "Could" fix the problem?

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