AEV JT 2.5″ DUALSPORT RT SUSPENSION - Installation, tips and MOAB results!

[HarryM]

Wearing in very well - that is to say I have not had any issues. I re-torqued everything as the instructions indicate and have been out and back to Moab with it as noted so lots of miles. Have also done numerous Colorado adventures. Still love it wouldn't change a thing except maybe 37s.... I haven't taken measurements to verify any sag yet but the ride is still a massive improvement and flex has been Fantastic.
The other trails I have run were more overland routes. Did a two night adventure over Georgia Pass then down into Montezuma by way of Middle Fork / Swan River - explored that whole area. The amount of lift with 35s works great no belly dragging anymore over the woops and plenty of room to stuff tires.
Also took it down to Telluride for Muzzleloader season and did a fair bit of off highway scouting just outside of town there - was again very pleased with performance.

I have some work travel coming up and then I'm heading back out to Moab by way of the Rimrocker trail so will be back out in Gand Junction soon. Then more and more Moab. No hamburger hill this time.

Another note - I took mine in for it's last wave program oil change and had the 30k maintenance done (I drive it alot). While it was there I asked my dealer about the lift and tires vs. my warranty considering others have had issues. These guys (AutoNation jeep in Centennial) said obviously they won't warranty the components but that the AEV kit is essentially a factory lift so they don't give anyone trouble for having it they also rotated my 35s no complaints. Have heard others having issues with that too.

I am in the process of looking at the Mopar 2” and AEV 2.5” On my Sport S. It is a DD and cross country ride so I need the ride to stay comfortable. My off roading will be beginner. Since road manners will be primary, any thoughts on the preferre d lift? It looks like we use the same dealer.

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[Uparms]

I am in the process of looking at the Mopar 2” and AEV 2.5” On my Sport S. It is a DD and cross country ride so I need the ride to stay comfortable. My off roading will be beginner. Since road manners will be primary, any thoughts on the preferre d lift? It looks like we use the same dealer.

Get the AEV. I Have the Mopar, still adding parts. 35cBFGs AT2.

 

[kooltoys]

Get the AEV. I Have the Mopar, still adding parts. 35cBFGs AT2.

agree, if I did it again this would be my starting point

 

[21WhiteRubi]

Getting ready to install my AEV Dualsport lift this weekend as well as a Steer Smarts front track bar. For those that have done this, what's a good starting point for the front trackbar measurement. Was thinking maybe 3/4" longer than the stock track bar? I know this may vary some with each Jeep, but just looking for a starting point.

Planning to run 315/70/17s with mine. It is a daily driver that will see fairly mild off-road trails. AEV Borah wheels as well.

 

[JTDay]

@JeepDadiator Enjoyed reading your thorough review and explanation of your decision criteria with the lift. Like you were, I am now between the Mopar and AEV DS for various reasons. I have a Sport S with standard axles (not max tow) which should be at my dealer soon. One thing I've found interesting about the AEV kit I've not seen mentioned with others is found in their FAQ section. They don't recommend running this kit with OE wheels and the standard axles due to interference with the wheel and passenger rear end link. I do plan to keep the OE wheels and run 33s or pizza cutter 35s so I'm not sure if this may preclude me from the AEV.

I'm guessing that some part of the wheel/tire contacts the link to bar connection circled below.

It doesn't seem to be clear as to why this is and I can't figure out why other lifts don't mention this but I am wondering if the cause has something to do with the rear axle being off center post lift given the kit doesn't have an adjustable rear track bar, or maybe it has something to do with the short rear end links and the end link brackets AEV use on the rear OR a combination of both.

When you installed yours, was there any indication as to why this situation can occur and if it can be remedied somehow for use with the OE wheels? I am just assuming that for whatever reason the Mopar 2" lift does not have this problem on any of the trim/spec levels. As you know it also omits the rear track bar bracket and the end link setups are different but nothing at all suggests the Mopar kit won't work with any of the stock Gladiators. TIA for any insight. As most folks are running aftermarket wheels, this doesn't seem to be a common consideration so I may end up making a thread on this.

 

[21WhiteRubi]

Just finished mine up this weekend. I am running the AEV borah wheels so there is no interference. The AEV kit does come with a rear track bar tower to correct the geometry. I am pretty sure they factored in centering the axle as well as trying to make it as flat as possible. I checked yesterday and I was pretty close to dead even in terms of center in regards to the rear axle. Front axle was another story, but I added a SteerSmarts adjustable track bar in the front.

My hunch is that is has something to do with the longer length of the AEV end link as well as the narrower axle in the sport.

My experience has been that AEV has done their R&D really well with their products. Was my main reason for going with their kit.

If it helps, I can snap a picture of mine for reference. Won't help too much as I am running a +25mm offset wheel on a Rubicon axle. But there is ample clearance in my case.

 

[NoDoorsNoProblem]

@JeepDadiator Great thread and writeup. I have a different build, but am looking strongly at the ARB Bondi full-width, and I wanted to know how you've been doing with it after the 2.5 AEV lift.

I have a Mojave on 37s with the 2" AEV spacer lift and geo correction brackets, with factory control arms. With the slightly higher Mojave nose from the factory, we're probably sitting at about the same height, and I'm very curious what your rub looks like on the front Bondi bumper, if any. Obviously I won't have the crazy articulation you do in the Rubi without the SBD, and I think the travel on the Mojave shocks is the biggest limiting factor too. But any input on how your flex is with the Bondi?

 

[Shadowmaker]

+1 for the write up and this lift kit. After 11 months, I am pretty happy with this kit on 37s. It tracks amazing on the freeway and handles any obstacle I am comfortable with.

 

[JeepDadiator]

@JeepDadiator Great thread and writeup. I have a different build, but am looking strongly at the ARB Bondi full-width, and I wanted to know how you've been doing with it after the 2.5 AEV lift.

I have a Mojave on 37s with the 2" AEV spacer lift and geo correction brackets, with factory control arms. With the slightly higher Mojave nose from the factory, we're probably sitting at about the same height, and I'm very curious what your rub looks like on the front Bondi bumper, if any. Obviously I won't have the crazy articulation you do in the Rubi without the SBD, and I think the travel on the Mojave shocks is the biggest limiting factor too. But any input on how your flex is with the Bondi?

Sorry for the big delay in response; have been very busy with work and traveling all over the place. I liked the ARB Bondi Full width, tucked the winch down low re-used the fog lights... my only complaint was how it looked with the fender chop but not sure if that is a factor for you or not. I actually had a weird situation where I put the front Tow Hook into a rock hard enough to bend the frame and the bumper. Got the frame all straightened but the bumper wouldn't bolt up after wards have also bent....

I did have some rub ill snap a picture it was really only enough to take the paint off of the inserts that they have on the backside to close-out the opening... nothing major but that was with 35BFG AT/KOs

I just ordered and am in the process of painting a Moto Bilt Front bumper... will likely post about that soon too.

 

[NoDoorsNoProblem]

Sorry for the big delay in response; have been very busy with work and traveling all over the place. I liked the ARB Bondi Full width, tucked the winch down low re-used the fog lights... my only complaint was how it looked with the fender chop but not sure if that is a factor for you or not. I actually had a weird situation where I put the front Tow Hook into a rock hard enough to bend the frame and the bumper. Got the frame all straightened but the bumper wouldn't bolt up after wards have also bent....

I did have some rub ill snap a picture it was really only enough to take the paint off of the inserts that they have on the backside to close-out the opening... nothing major but that was with 35BFG AT/KOs

I just ordered and am in the process of painting a Moto Bilt Front bumper... will likely post about that soon too.

Thanks for taking the time to write back,
I’d appreciate any pics you have. Although if you’re rubbing with 35s, I have a feeling my 37s would rub under hard flex, even without SBD.

A bummer because I really like the ARB full width bumpers, it seems like most of the popular full widths are really just a stubby width bumper with some thin sheet metal wings attached. I like the idea of the super sturdy ARB Bondi/Classic that has great protection from intrusion into the wheel well, in case of animal or reckless driver strike.

Why are you changing to the Motobilt? Just need all that flexy clearance of a stubby in the trails youre hitting?

 

[JeepDadiator]

Thanks for taking the time to write back,
I’d appreciate any pics you have. Although if you’re rubbing with 35s, I have a feeling my 37s would rub under hard flex, even without SBD.

A bummer because I really like the ARB full width bumpers, it seems like most of the popular full widths are really just a stubby width bumper with some thin sheet metal wings attached. I like the idea of the super sturdy ARB Bondi/Classic that has great protection from intrusion into the wheel well, in case of animal or reckless driver strike.

Why are you changing to the Motobilt? Just need all that flexy clearance of a stubby in the trails youre hitting?

I will snap some pictures tonight of the bumper, its off of the jeep currently though. When I initially damaged the frame by contacting the ARB tow-hook into a rock I thought I would be able to re-use the ARB but it pushed back with the frame considering its attached to the tow hook so after the frame repair/straightening the bumper no longer bolted up easily. I likely could have bent it back out with my shop press and some patience but I am running thin on free time these days and since I did the fender chop the Full Width looked a bit strange so I just went for it and bought a new one. the ARB stubby was on my list but it looked like it blocked too much of the grill... then Moto-bilt had a 10% sale so i just pulled the trigger.

 

[MAI77]

Started on the rear end install today and everything going well....until the I noticed that only 1 sway bar link relocation bracket was installed and not the 2 shown in your image. Really stinks, hope I can get a hold of them on Monday and get some pretty fast shipping.

 

[WILDHOBO]

@JeepDadiator Enjoyed reading your thorough review and explanation of your decision criteria with the lift. Like you were, I am now between the Mopar and AEV DS for various reasons. I have a Sport S with standard axles (not max tow) which should be at my dealer soon. One thing I've found interesting about the AEV kit I've not seen mentioned with others is found in their FAQ section. They don't recommend running this kit with OE wheels and the standard axles due to interference with the wheel and passenger rear end link. I do plan to keep the OE wheels and run 33s or pizza cutter 35s so I'm not sure if this may preclude me from the AEV.

I'm guessing that some part of the wheel/tire contacts the link to bar connection circled below.

It doesn't seem to be clear as to why this is and I can't figure out why other lifts don't mention this but I am wondering if the cause has something to do with the rear axle being off center post lift given the kit doesn't have an adjustable rear track bar, or maybe it has something to do with the short rear end links and the end link brackets AEV use on the rear OR a combination of both.

When you installed yours, was there any indication as to why this situation can occur and if it can be remedied somehow for use with the OE wheels? I am just assuming that for whatever reason the Mopar 2" lift does not have this problem on any of the trim/spec levels. As you know it also omits the rear track bar bracket and the end link setups are different but nothing at all suggests the Mopar kit won't work with any of the stock Gladiators. TIA for any insight. As most folks are running aftermarket wheels, this doesn't seem to be a common consideration so I may end up making a thread on this.

Adding some spidertrax 1.75” spacers would fix this. They’re very high quality. I’m running 37x12.5’s on my stock rubicon wheels. No issues at full articulation and wheel lock.

 

[545moose]

That sucks to hear the ARB caused bending when the hook got caught up. I'm not a fan of any multi-piece bumpers since I think it introduces weak points. I do like the full-width style so I'll have to keep looking around for options...

 

[jeventures]

I’ve a question for this awesome thread now that I am picking up an AEV high capacity RT lift next week. Is an adjustable track bar necessary for the JTR? AEV instructions say it’s not due to geometry correction brackets, etc. I’m currently all stock. Planning on this kit and 35” tires.

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